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derekcohen 05-15-2015 05:01 PM

Building the Lingerie Chest
For those interested in a watching a build of a chest - with an interesting design, I must add - the start (4 chapters) is now up on my website.

Go to: Furniture

... and scan down to "Lingerie Chest".

Regards from Perth


TahoeTwoBears 05-16-2015 01:06 AM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Super interesting as always. You keep raising the bar and it's going to get harder and harder to please us. :wavey:

Okami 05-16-2015 05:07 AM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Very interesting project, Derek!
Love the way You used the #66:thumbsup2:
The Shinto Rasp is a very useful tool and can remove wood fast. Much overlooked rasp in my opinion, although I agree about the painful top grip. I usually tape my fingers if I'm using it for any prolonged period.
Derek, what's the plane You jointed the legs with?
I'm looking forward to the drawers, and how You go about tackling them.

derekcohen 05-16-2015 09:27 AM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Thanks Okami.

That is why they have a Shinto with a handle to be used like a plane. What I tend to do is push on another handle on the end so that I can push-pull it. This board was too wide for that.

The jointer plane is the new Veritas Custom #7. Fabulous plane. I have a review (of sorts) of these planes here:

It was an opportunity to explore plane design their ergonomics - how we hold and use them - which is an interest of mine.

Regards from Perth


CharlesWilson 05-17-2015 01:34 AM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
My Shinto has two handles: (lower right in picture)

Sometimes I use it with the handles removed.


Leakyroof 05-18-2015 08:05 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Very nice Derek. I'm not sure why, but I really like the Stanley #66 tool and the work it produced for you. I guess simple coves and beads at interesting places on a piece draw me to it . :thumbsup2:

derekcohen 05-19-2015 03:13 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Thanks LR

I had not used the #66 for some time, preferring instead to use a really simple scratch stock, such as the Hack type. For beads, the Hack is OK, but one has to watch the formation of the bead as it is possible to over cut it. This remained the danger with the cove. Although working to scribed lines, it would be easy just keep cutting at this type lacks a depth stop. The surface end result can be quite rough. The #66 has a built-in depth stop, which partly ensures that the cuts are even, but importantly when it stops cutting, it starts burnishing. This smooths and polishes the surface to a plane-like finish.

Regards from Perth


Sta2lt 05-22-2015 07:06 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Thank you for posting, I always enjoy reading your posts. This is a really nice project and gives me some ideas.

derekcohen 05-25-2015 04:46 PM

Sawing tenons
Most of us have cut a good many mortice and tenon joints over the years. It occurred to me today to ask a question about something we likely take for granted: Do you saw the cheek first, or the shoulder, and how far to the intersection do you go?

For myself I saw the cheeks (as close to the markings as possible) ...

.. and stop a smidgeon short of the shoulder line.

Having created a knife fence on the shoulder line, I saw the shoulder close to but a smidgeon short of the cheek line ...

Then it is a case of back-and-forth to sever the bit between ..

It will eventually pop off nice and clean ..

The vanity cheek may now be sawn. This is 1/8" (3mm) ...

.. or the haunch created. The haunches are for the upper side of the panels, with the blind M&T at the lower end (as they do not go all the way to the bottom) ..

I am now ready to measure and fit to mortices, and then complete the mitres for the coves, and fine tune the shoulders ...

Ready for the weekend ...

Regards from Perth


rutager 05-25-2015 09:50 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Nice sawing as always Derek.

I do the cheeks first although I don't think I've ever handsawn them except for on my Bridge City Tools Jointmaker. Usually I use the table saw.

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