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derekcohen 01-08-2016 06:45 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

Originally Posted by TahoeTwoBears (Post 92572)
Thanks for keeping us up to date. The work is beautiful and really intimidating.


You're not alone if feeling intimidated - I feel this way about many pieces when I start out. The challenge is getting one's head around the angles - especially in this build. The rest is just working to the marked lines.

Regards from a chilly London


derekcohen 02-09-2016 04:21 PM

Four down, four to go ..
Just a quick update on the Lingerie Chest.

Four drawers done. They take 3 full days each to build (1 1/2 weekends). This includes thicknessing/sawing/shaping all the parts, dovetailing, and fitting.

The gaps between the drawers will be sorted out once all are done. There will be 1/16" between the drawers.

And the obligatory dovetail shot

The dovetails increase progressively, as with the size of the drawers.

Next post will be after all the drawers are done.

Regards from Perth


rutager 02-09-2016 10:50 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Beautiful work Derek!

derekcohen 03-14-2016 05:34 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
All the drawers are finally done ...

Well, almost ...

The drawer bottoms have still to be made for 4 of the drawers. After making each one separately, it occurred to me that this was the one item that I could build en masse.

After the drawer bottoms are in, the task will be to make the drawer fronts coplanar. They are close to one another in curve, but there are a few variations here-and-there. What I plan to do is shim the drawers by about 1/2" to raise them out an equal amount so that they all lie proud of the carcase, place the chest on its back so that the drawers face upward, and then sand the faces with a long sander made out of a 2x4.

What do you think of this method? Any other ideas?

Regards from Perth


Poto 03-14-2016 06:21 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Wow, Derek - that's a significant achievement. Nice work!

Your method of getting the drawer fronts coplanar is an interesting one. Lee Valley makes a shooting sander - a long metal angle designed for sanding long edges like a shooting plane. I wonder whether something like that would work? I guess it depends a lot on how much you need to remove. If it's more than a couple of mm, I'd probably use some machinery first, just to save time, and wear-and-tear on the drawers.

derekcohen 03-15-2016 03:41 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
I need something longer. It will just be used with fine grit to mark the high spots, which I will then plane down. (similar to "colour sanding" car body panels).

Regards from Perth


Cricket 03-15-2016 06:59 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
Derek, I've used sticky back paper on a long steel angle to bring boat surfaces down to coplanar bevels. Similar to the 2x4 idea I guess. If you had a helper, with one of you on each end of the sander, it would be easy to use.

Coming along very well!

derekcohen 04-06-2016 08:35 AM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
This weekend I returned to the Lingerie Chest to flush the drawers fronts and seal all with white, dewaxed shellac.

The drawers are now complete (coplanar) save for the drawer handles and waxing .. which will be done this coming weekend. And then it will be time to start the top section.

In the end I did not use sandpaper to level the drawer fronts, but simply marked off the high spots and planed/scraped them.

It is difficult to see the bow fronts in this photo.

The figure on these drawer fronts was both a source of pleasure and frustration. I love the wildness of it. On the other hand, it was important to achieve a flow from board-to-board, and I only had just enough to make these drawer fronts. If I screwed up one, I would have had to start all over again.

The Jarrah fronts were also difficult to work. Very hard wood, with grain that went all over the show - reversing ... even end grain showing through. Planing these boards really demonstrated the value of the double iron as they were less affected by grain direction. It was necessary to scrape at the end since I needed to level small areas, and fortunately the scrapers worked very well.

Traversing with a LV Skew Block plane to level the faces ..

Followed by a HNT Gordon palm smoother (60 degree bed) ...

This is the type of tearout from this plane (which is a fantastic very small smoother) ..

Removed by scraping ...

Then sanded (!) to remove marks (theis is a Mirka Abranet hand sander, using dust extraction - I hate sanding, but this excels) ...

And finally scraped for a fine, burnished finish (you can distinguish the scraped from sanded sections) ..

Lastly, two coats of White Shellac (by Ubeaut) to finish. This is a concentrate of dewaxed shellac that is thinned with methylated spirits (alcohol).

Regards from Perth


derekcohen 04-10-2016 02:41 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
We left off last time with the drawers completed - coplaner with one another, and then finished in white shellac (Ubeaut).

It was was nice to work at a relaxed pace this weekend, since the goal was to install the drawer handles, wax the drawers (Renaissance), and complete the rear of the carcase. All nice and easy.

The panel for the rear is 1/4" thick Makore, as are the carcase frame-and-panel sides. I made the panel at the start of the build. It had begun as one of the side panels, but it lacked any figure, and consequently I set it aside for the rear of the carcase. This was finished inside with wax and outside with Livos Universal Wood Oil (an Aussie product), which was used on the all the other parts of the carcase.

The panel is secured with nails into the frame. The panel can move laterally via widened (drilled) nail holes. There is a coved attached moulding that tidies up the fitting. The cove matches the cove that is part of the frame-and-panel sides (which were shaped into the frames).

I got to use my restored mitrebox :)

Before the rear could be done, the handles needed to be attached to the drawers. The handles had been a major headache for a long time. I knew what I wanted but could not find ready-made versions. I hunted everywhere like an obsessed dervish!. I was about to build them in Jarrah (my wife's choice to go with the Jarrah drawer fronts) when I found them about 6 weeks ago on eBay! According to the advert they are "antique bronze".

After building a template, and carefully marking, triple checking measurements, I drilled the holes and screwed them on ...

What do you think?

Here is a side. The bow is very subtle, softening the profile ...

What's there to do? Well, I am starting on the top section. The chest needs a crown moulding. This will hide a lid. Raising the lid will reveal a mirror on the underside, plus a recess to place jewellery or cosmetics. The recess will be leather lined.

Then there are jewellery trays to fit (also leather lined). This will go in the top drawer ..

All the drawers have good extension, held horizontal by the last 1 1/2" -2".

Until the top is done ...

Regards from Perth


neilc 04-12-2016 02:36 PM

Re: Building the Lingerie Chest
That looks fantastic, Derek! The bronze hardware is a perfect choice. And the bow adds a subtle detail that really is nice.

Great work! How many hours would you guess in the build?!


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