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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2015, 05:41 PM
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Default The Proof of the Pudding ...

Below is the latest installment of the Lingerie Chest build. I get the chance to test out whether the strategy to build the sliding dovetail housings from the rear of the carcase for the front of the carcase works or not.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...hePudding.html

I know that there are no questions asked, but please feel free to comment or offer your thoughts how you would do it differently.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2015, 01:00 PM
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Default Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

Great progress, Derek! Are the drawer sides going to be angled or are you going to build "square" drawers that you will taper to fit the openings?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2015, 05:00 PM
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Default Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

Both. The drawer fronts will need to have their ends angled to the extremes of the side curve. The drawer sides are then dovetailed on (half-blinds). Now the drawer sides are coped into the side panels.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2015, 05:33 PM
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Default Lingerie Chest - starting on the drawer runners

It's been at least a month since I managed time on the Lingerie Chest. Found some time today. It seems to take forever to get the rhythm back.

We left off last time with the sliding mortice sockets installed. These had been built in one section (a "fillet" - I did not know what else to call it), which was split into two parts, one for the rear and another for the front of the carcase. This was to ensure that they were both parallel and coplanar in this curved sided chest ...



The front and rear drawer blades were fitted ...



Today every was removed ..



The first task was to ensure that there were no sections of the fillet that were higher than the sides of the carcase (otherwise the drawers would not be flush with the sides). These were pared down ..



The dovetails in the fillets needed to be extended into the sides of the carcase ...



... by 20mm (this will leave space for a 22mm thick drawer front and a shadow front edge). The fillets were glued onto the panel - any movement in the floating panel will be towards the rear, and allowance for this is made in that area. The extention of the sliding dovetails would solidify the structure at the front ...



The sides of the sockets were saw, first with a dozuki and then extended a little deeper with an azebiki.





The ends were drilled to depth ..



.. and then pared out. The sides of the sockets became handy guides to maintain angles ..



Now that that front and rear drawer blades were in their correct positions, the side drawer runners needed to be made.

The drawer blades were morticed and the runners received tenons ..





In fitting them, the front blades were first inserted (from the inside), and the runners fitted (the picture below is taken from the rear of the chest) ..



The rear blade could then be attached. The photo below is taken from the front of the chest. The lower two drawer blades and runners are filled (dry so far) ..



Note that the drawer fronts are bowed, and bowed filler sections are yet to be added to the front drawer blades.

And the last photo before I close up for next weekend ...



Regards from Perth

Derek
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2015, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

Really fun, Derek - thanks for sharing the progress. It looks like a really nerve-wracking build. I'm looking forward to seeing how the curved fronts develop.

That's a very nice-looking Damascus (mokume?) marking knife. What's its story?
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2015, 10:09 PM
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Default Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

I've been practicing full-blind, rebated dovetails for a campaign piece I've been working on for longer than I'd like to admit. I took a demolished BCTW JMP blade, busted off a 3" section and sharped one side to a chisel blade, which can be slipped in the angled kerf and driven to the bottom of the joint with a few light taps. It makes cleanout much easier.

Great to see that you are making more progress on your beautiful project!
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2015, 04:17 PM
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Default Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poto View Post
Really fun, Derek - thanks for sharing the progress. It looks like a really nerve-wracking build. I'm looking forward to seeing how the curved fronts develop.

That's a very nice-looking Damascus (mokume?) marking knife. What's its story?
Poto, that is just a knife I made some years ago. I've made many. They get rotated. he wood is ebonised Jarrah.





The hole from the lathe was filled with brass.



The tapered handle is great for heavy down force, for which this knife it intended.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2015, 04:18 PM
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Default Re: Building the Lingerie Chest

Sweet!

Thanks for sharing the pictures. That's a very beautiful - and I'm sure functional - knife. The brass dot in the handle is a really nice touch.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2015, 04:27 PM
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Default Mortice and Tenons

There are a couple of techniques regarding tuning of the mortice and tenon that hopefully are worthy of discussion.

The next chapter of the build is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...iceTenons.html

For those who just want the update on the build progress, here it is ..



Regards from Perth

Derek
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2015, 05:53 PM
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Default A stage completed

Well, it has been a lot of work to complete the drawer runners. Everything is now done preparatory to building the drawers. I've really been looking forward to this stage, since it will be another challenge.

The drawer runners, themselves, required a great deal of finicky work. Getting them in square and coplanar is straight forward in a straight construction, but curves and compound angles change all that.

We left off last time with the basic frames in ...



To the front of each drawer blade was added a bow.



I was asked early on why I did not just shape this directly on the blade. The reason I chose to do it this way was just that I felt I had more control over the result. Every drawer is a different width, and needs to project in a coplanar line from top to bottom. I drew up a template to shape a consistent curve ...



That is the Jarrah for the drawer fronts at the rear.

The upper most drawer will have a secret lock (since this drawer will be a jewellery box). I decided to use the Shaker method. My variation consists of cutting a slot in a centre mullion ..



... which is lowered below the rails ...



There will be a spring (probably in mild steel) beneath the drawer that will drop down and lock into the rear of the front drawer blade ...



A finger (through the slot - which will hide the mechanism from below) will lift the spring to permit the drawer to slide forward ..



Since the casework is a framed panel, guides are needed for the drawers ...





Here are they installed. Perhaps you can begin to see the how the slight bow will form ..





Now I need to figure out the drawers construction - coping it into the sides. Any thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek
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