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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2014, 09:48 PM
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Default Re: Game Table

Although the second Game Table has not yet been delivered, (the destination is still in its final stages of construction), work on the accessories has been done.

A couple of prototypes were made and after some evaluation and improvements, production of the accessories has begun.

This is a mockup of the end rail with the overhanging ledge. The pieces are held in position for these photos with clamps.



A prototype cup holder is shown here. A cavity is routed to hold keys, chips or other incidental items.


Here is a close up view of the underside of the cup holder.


Here are the locking inserts removed from the cup holder.


Here the cup holder has been slid into the rail channel and the locking inserts are still disengaged.


The locking inserts are now pushed in.
With the cup in place, the locking inserts can't inadvertently disengage.




The stainless steel insert is now in place and the cup holder is locked on the rail.




Three layers of cork board and one layer of shelf liner can be used to fill the lower section of the stainless steel insert when a larger cup is being used.



Here the lower section of the stainless steel insert is filled.



This is a template for producing the routed cavity in the cup holder.


A prototype shelf accessory is shown here. Rail locking tabs are also incorporated into this accessory.


The groove for the locking tabs was easily created on the table saw using a dado blade. The squares screwed in at the curved end of the dado prevent the locking tabs from being removed during operation.


Simulation of Game Table Accessory usage.



Since the locking tabs are not retained by the prototype cup holder, a couple of modifications are being made.

A machine screw will be used instead of a dowel. Rubber tubing covers the threads.

The little black screw will be used to prevent the tab from inadvertent removal. It will ride in a stopped channel routed into the bottom of the dado.



This shows how the insert will be situated. Note that the stopped channel for the black screw head has yet to be routed.


Here are parts for the final versions of the cup holders, large shelves and small shelves for the two game tables.


I'll finally be getting the routers busy on those sharp corners, stop channels and routed cavities. Then, of course, the finishing and final assembly. Good thing I have lots of spare time.

Charles
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2014, 12:24 AM
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Default Re: Game Table

Wow, Charles!!! Very nice and it is a good thing you have lots of spare time! So many parts... I like the wooden mechanism that holds the cup holders. Was this your design? Very well thought out.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2014, 12:58 AM
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Default Re: Game Table

Ain't you crafty? Like the creative solution.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2014, 01:52 AM
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Default Re: Game Table

The design is my take on what geekchiqhq.com appears to have implemented. From photos on the web, it appears that they have a profile that can 'sort of' work without an actual locking mechanism. I say 'sort of' because I saw a posting indicating that it isn't foolproof or childproof. After my initial stab at the latch design I found a web photo showing a similar geekchiq implementation using what appeared to be metal parts.

The slots in cup holder prototype were done with a router, and the whole setup was a bit cumbersome. The dado set was used for the shelf prototype, which I assumed I would need cleaning up with a chisel until the idea of putting those square blocks at the ends came to me. An added plus to those blocks is that they give you something to rest your thumb on when retracting the wooden latch with your forefinger.

For the cup holders, using the dado to cut the channels doesn't require any cleanup because the radius portion of the notch is removed when the hole is cut for the stainless insert.

Using the stainless steel insert to prevent accidental unlocking came to me as an epiphany after mulling the whole thing over for a while. Even so, it wasn't until I got thoroughly annoyed with the wooden latches falling out of their slots to the floor that the little-black-screw-head solution took form. Much as I would like to, I never seem to get it right the first time!

Charles
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Last edited by CharlesWilson; 02-26-2014 at 03:21 AM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2014, 03:09 AM
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Default Re: Game Table

Very cool, Charles! I like all the thought that went into it. These tables are going to be amazing!

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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2014, 09:29 PM
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Default Re: Game Table

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesWilson View Post
The design is my take on what geekchiqhq.com appears to have implemented. From photos on the web, it appears that they have a profile that can 'sort of' work without an actual locking mechanism. I say 'sort of' because I saw a posting indicating that it isn't foolproof or childproof. After my initial stab at the latch design I found a web photo showing a similar geekchiq implementation using what appeared to be metal parts.

The slots in cup holder prototype were done with a router, and the whole setup was a bit cumbersome. The dado set was used for the shelf prototype, which I assumed I would need cleaning up with a chisel until the idea of putting those square blocks at the ends came to me. An added plus to those blocks is that they give you something to rest your thumb on when retracting the wooden latch with your forefinger.

For the cup holders, using the dado to cut the channels doesn't require any cleanup because the radius portion of the notch is removed when the hole is cut for the stainless insert.

Using the stainless steel insert to prevent accidental unlocking came to me as an epiphany after mulling the whole thing over for a while. Even so, it wasn't until I got thoroughly annoyed with the wooden latches falling out of their slots to the floor that the little-black-screw-head solution took form. Much as I would like to, I never seem to get it right the first time!

Charles
Well, it certainly looks like you got it all right this time. Very cool and thanks for sharing. Inspiring work and creativity.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2014, 06:47 PM
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Default Re: Game Table

Update:
I finally delivered the second table and its accessories to my cousin in his newly built house. The table legs were shortened 1-1/2 inches due to the fact that my cousin and his family are normal height, whereas my son-in-law and his two sons are in the upper 5% in height region.

The Hatbox Telescope is the next item to be attacked before new projects are started.

Charles
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2016, 09:27 PM
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Default Re: Game Table

Hi Charles, I am finding this thread very helpful for a similar project I have been asked to produce here in the UK, with the possibility of future orders from the customer's circle of friends. My main question in planning it is how to attach the legs. Did you use threaded inserts in the legs, for the bolts that I can see going through the (poplar?) sub frames? And are the finished mahogany rail parts on the inside and outside simply screwed to that sub frame, not connecting structurally to the legs?

I am trying to keep it super simple, and planning a single thickness border rail (like your one with the half dovetail slot), which connects directly to the legs.

Any advice is welcome.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2016, 01:47 AM
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Default Re: Game Table

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freebird View Post
Hi Charles, I am finding this thread very helpful for a similar project I have been asked to produce here in the UK, with the possibility of future orders from the customer's circle of friends. My main question in planning it is how to attach the legs. Did you use threaded inserts in the legs, for the bolts that I can see going through the (poplar?) sub frames? And are the finished mahogany rail parts on the inside and outside simply screwed to that sub frame, not connecting structurally to the legs?

I am trying to keep it super simple, and planning a single thickness border rail (like your one with the half dovetail slot), which connects directly to the legs.

Any advice is welcome.
Leg attachment to the frame was done with two 4" hanger bolts on each leg. One of the photos shows the attachment in detail of the corner of the frame to its leg. These hanger bolts were 3/8" diameter (you can find them on Amazon). The leg sides make contact with the rails, but no leg surface makes direct contact with the frame. The outside rails were screwed into from the inside of the frame. After the outside rails were secured to the frame, the legs could be bolted onto the frame and rail assembly. The inside mahogany parts were screwed to the frame, and the screw heads covered with a decorative cap.

Since delivery, my daughter's game table has seen a lot of use. As of this date, there have been no requests to change the game vault from the upper position to any of the available lower ones. Building in that flexibility may have been overkill. Time will tell.

As my thread postings indicated, many of the design decisions were made to allow me to personally transport and assemble the tables at their intended destinations. If you don't have similar restrictions, your choices won't be as limiting.

Here is a link to the hanger bolts I used:

https://www.amazon.com/Hard---Find-F...s=hanger+bolts


Keep us informed of your progress.

Charles
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