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Old 03-04-2012, 10:54 PM
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Default Coffee Table

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Last edited by Ausrob; 03-05-2012 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:54 PM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Rob! Where'd your picture go?!? That was a gorgeous table! I particularly liked the top, with its beautiful grain and figure.

I'd also love to know how you use that burnishing oil. I recall someone (maybe you) mentioning it before, but I'd still be interested in trying it.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:33 PM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poto View Post
Rob! Where'd your picture go?!? That was a gorgeous table! I particularly liked the top, with its beautiful grain and figure.

I'd also love to know how you use that burnishing oil. I recall someone (maybe you) mentioning it before, but I'd still be interested in trying it.
Rob,

I have not yet seen your picture but from what Peter wrote above I would very much love to. Please re-post it.

Fred
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:56 AM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Hereís some pics of a coffee table I made. Itís made of Tasmanian Blackwood and finished with Organoil Hard Burnishing oil, which was wet sanded to 4000g then wiped off with a cotton cloth. It is approx1.2m x 0.6m x .45m. It has two drawers, which have a groove routed along the bottom edge to act as handles.

The table was finished with a product called Organoil "Hard Burnishing Oil". I could have used Wattyl Scandinavian Oil and possibly Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil.

Prep is important.
I dry sand the wood using a Random Orbital Sander (in my case a Festool ETS 150/3) staring at 80g then 100,120,150,180,240 and 400g. At this stage the timber is wiped with Mineral Turps and oil is wiped onto the timber until it reaches saturation. This usually takes two applications and about 10-15 minutes. No need to fuss.
After that, I wet sand starting with the 400 pad I used for dry sanding, then 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 4000g. The two and four thousand grit pads are made by Festool and called Platin 2 pads. They will fit any 6" ROS. After that, all I have to do is wipe with a cotton cloth. The finish,as you see, is amazing. If you want, give the oil 24-48 hrs to fully dry, then use a Wipe on Poly, or wax to finish the job. The Hard Burnishing oil is highly resistant to stains, heat, scratches and doesn't need any further finishing.
I did a small test some time ago comparing the finish you get using Danish Oil and Scandinavian Oil on highly figured Red Gum. It was clear that more of the figure was obvious and the subtleties of the grain highly retained using Scandinavian Oil instead of Danish Oil.
Strongly suggest you give this method a try.

Regards,

Rob
Attached Thumbnails
coffee-table-table_5.jpg   coffee-table-table_6.jpg   coffee-table-table_7.jpg   coffee-table-table_8.jpg   coffee-table-table_2.jpg  

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Old 03-06-2012, 03:18 PM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Nice! So you just do one application of oil, and then lots of wet sanding? Or do you keep applying oil as you sand? Can you do the whole table at once, or do you have to do one part at a time so that it doesn't dry?

I'm surprised that the finish is stain resistant. I'd expect that wet things would leave rings. They certainly do when I use an oil/poly sort of finish like the Maloof finish. I've turned to Minwax wipe-on poly for anything that'll get glasses or plates on it.

How did you do your drawers? Are they on wooden glides? Did you dovetail the drawers?
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:27 PM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Nice table Rob, love the hardwoods You blokes get out there
I've never used Hard burnishing oil, I can't find it here.. What exactly is in it Rob?
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:45 PM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ausrob View Post
Hereís some pics of a coffee table I made. Itís made of Tasmanian Blackwood and finished with Organoil Hard Burnishing oil, which was wet sanded to 4000g then wiped off with a cotton cloth. It is approx1.2m x 0.6m x .45m. It has two drawers, which have a groove routed along the bottom edge to act as handles.

The table was finished with a product called Organoil "Hard Burnishing Oil". I could have used Wattyl Scandinavian Oil and possibly Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil.

Prep is important.
I dry sand the wood using a Random Orbital Sander (in my case a Festool ETS 150/3) staring at 80g then 100,120,150,180,240 and 400g. At this stage the timber is wiped with Mineral Turps and oil is wiped onto the timber until it reaches saturation. This usually takes two applications and about 10-15 minutes. No need to fuss.
After that, I wet sand starting with the 400 pad I used for dry sanding, then 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 4000g. The two and four thousand grit pads are made by Festool and called Platin 2 pads. They will fit any 6" ROS. After that, all I have to do is wipe with a cotton cloth. The finish,as you see, is amazing. If you want, give the oil 24-48 hrs to fully dry, then use a Wipe on Poly, or wax to finish the job. The Hard Burnishing oil is highly resistant to stains, heat, scratches and doesn't need any further finishing.
I did a small test some time ago comparing the finish you get using Danish Oil and Scandinavian Oil on highly figured Red Gum. It was clear that more of the figure was obvious and the subtleties of the grain highly retained using Scandinavian Oil instead of Danish Oil.
Strongly suggest you give this method a try.

Regards,

Rob
Rob,

I love the wood and especially the beautiful grain on the top. So, it usually take two applications of the oil to reach saturation? I guess what I am asking is are you waiting 10-15 minutes between applications of the oil or do you keep putting it on until saturation is reached and then wait the 10-15 minutes. Like Okami, I too have never used a hard burnishing oil. What is the biggest difference between the hard burnishing oils and your Scandinavian or Danish oils? You said that it is highly resistant to stains and scratches so did you not use a wipe-on poly or wax because a coffee table generally does not get as much use as a dining room or kitchen table?

What type of joinery did you use and how long did it take to make this table? Beautiful job Rob. Thank you for posting.

Fred
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:12 PM
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Default Re: Coffee Table



Nice work, Rob!

When I saw the photos in your first post I followed the link to your website. A look around over there showed me just how appropriate the name is.

By the time I got back here your photos were gone. I'm very glad you put them back up.


.
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:10 AM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poto View Post
Nice! So you just do one application of oil, and then lots of wet sanding? Or do you keep applying oil as you sand? Can you do the whole table at once, or do you have to do one part at a time so that it doesn't dry?

I'm surprised that the finish is stain resistant. I'd expect that wet things would leave rings. They certainly do when I use an oil/poly sort of finish like the Maloof finish. I've turned to Minwax wipe-on poly for anything that'll get glasses or plates on it.

How did you do your drawers? Are they on wooden glides? Did you dovetail the drawers?
Hi Poto,
I use two applications of oil, both before I start sanding. Two coats (the first being a flooding) seems to be enough to get the result. There is no need to add oil to the workpiece while sanding, but if you feel it necessary, you can damp down the sanding pad.

I have done an entire 2.4m x 1.1m jarrah dining table all in one go, but I don't see a problem with doing overlapping sections.

During the sanding process a slurry will build up. One's first reaction is to remove this, but it's best left on. The Platin pads will remove most and the cotton rag at the end will certainly clean it off.

While you are wet sanding and building up the slurry, you are generating heat, which seals the oil into the wood. This is one reason why you get stain resistance. I have attached pics to show you haw well this system works. These pics are of a mobile kitchen bench I made way back in 2004 when I started working with wood. The construction is ordinary but....
The thing to see is that despite no further finishing, no further coats of oil, despite being cleaned daily with kitchen cleansers and scouring pads, having hot pots put on it, cans, drinks etc., there are no marks except for some aberrant knife marks. The stuff really does work.

This was a budget piece, so I didn't spend as much time as I normally would on some of the niceties. The drawers are held together by dominoes! I have attached a photo of a different project which used domi's as well and yes the drawers are on timber runners.

Regards,

Rob
Attached Thumbnails
coffee-table-mahog_work_bench_1.jpg   coffee-table-mahog_work_bench_2.jpg   coffee-table-mahog_work_bench_3.jpg   coffee-table-red-gum-domis.jpg  
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:19 AM
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Default Re: Coffee Table

Cool! Thanks for the details.

How are the drawer fronts joined to the box? Dominos again?
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