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Old 07-24-2011, 02:02 PM
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Default Scraping.

The second cabinet was glued up today. While the glued dried I got on with cleaning up the exterior of the first cabinet.


Looking at the finished result, I was struck by the contrast with the, now, rough look of its original state. I think that one of the joys of woodworking comes when the finished state started to emerge, like a flower unfolding.

The second cabinet glued up minus clamps ..



I particularly love it when planing down dovetails and they sharpen in profile and detail. Here I first used a block plane straight across the grain, working one side to the centre, and then the other side to the centre.

I am very concerned about break out at the dovetails, and for this reason prefer to smooth the wood with a cabinet (card) scraper than a smoothing plane. I find there is more control with a cabinet scraper as it is possible to lift the blade just before hitting the dovetail.



The finish off a scraper is not usually as reflective as from a smoother, but I was happy with the finish here (although it is interesting how the camera lens shows up all the flaws in the surface) ...



I was also very happy with the way the dovetails came out. Hardwood to hardwood dovetailing is for masochists. There is no give and no leeway for error.



A few final shots for now.





Regards from Perth
Derek
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:08 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

Heirloom quality for sure!


"I am very concerned about break out at the dovetails, and for this reason prefer to smooth the wood with a cabinet (card) scraper than a smoothing plane. I find there is more control with a cabinet scraper as it is possible to lift the blade just before hitting the dovetail."

What about clamping boards around the edges to prevent tear out?
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:20 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

Hi Michael

I don't find this successful. This may work when playing endgrain of a single board, but a dovetailed carcase has ridges fromthe dovetails and, as a result, you cannot clamp a board flat to the edge. Or, once you have planed away ridges, the edge is too wide to clamp a board firmly.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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Old 07-24-2011, 02:51 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

It's looking really good, Derek. I'm interested that you chose a scraper over a smoother. The scraper certainly gives you more control, but you have a fairly vast expanse of wood to scrape. I'd find it a bit daunting.

Have you used the LV scraper plane? I'd be interested to know your thoughts on it.


Did you scrape the sides of the cabinet as well?
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:05 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

I might get drawn and quartered for asking... would this not be a perfect application for a rotex sander? Would the finish be that much below a scraper that you would notice the difference?
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:36 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post



The end grain of those pins look absolutely marvelous complimenting the top wonderfully. And I really like the soft sheen of the hand scrapped top.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:24 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

Shawn, I think you'd want to use the ETS sander rather than the Rotex if you were going to sand this. You could get a lovely smooth surface from the ETS, going through lots of grits. But for many, the sander is not as much fun, and the surface it leaves has no hint of hand-craftsmanship. Sometimes a plane track or two is a sign of excellence.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:18 AM
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Default Re: Scraping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poto View Post
It's looking really good, Derek. I'm interested that you chose a scraper over a smoother. The scraper certainly gives you more control, but you have a fairly vast expanse of wood to scrape. I'd find it a bit daunting.

Have you used the LV scraper plane? I'd be interested to know your thoughts on it.


Did you scrape the sides of the cabinet as well?
Hi Poto

Yes, the sides of the cabinet were also scraped - because there are dovetails at each end.

I would plane inwards (from the dovetails to the centre) if the dovetails were only at one end, or the wood was too soft to scrape, or the wood was not as brittle as this Jarrah (vulnerable to breakout). I try to avoid planing and scraping on the same surface as they create a different finish (the scraped wood generally does not have the smoothness/shine of the planed wood).

I've not used the large Veritas scraper plane (I do have the small one), the one that is the equivalent of the Stanley #112. I do have the Stanley #112 with a LN blade. It works well ... but I find I can do more with cards.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:55 AM
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Default Re: Scraping.

It looks better once you get all the scribble off it. You really should talk to the bloke who does that.

I have a LN scraper and a LV cabinet scraper but, like you, keep going back to cards. I did use the LN a fair bit on my benchtop, it seemed to really hit its straps on that job (thank goodness).

Are you able to get the cards to cut consistently well, or is it a bit inconsistent? I find I can get them right most of the time but every now and again something is not 'sweet' and I need to redo the edge.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:32 PM
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Default Re: Scraping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
...Are you able to get the cards to cut consistently well, or is it a bit inconsistent? I find I can get them right most of the time but every now and again something is not 'sweet' and I need to redo the edge.
Hi Greg

Whenever a new edge fails, assuming that you burnished the edge correctly, it is always for the same reason - the steel edge was not drawn out enough for the hook to form. This is the least understood part of preparing a scraper edge, I think. Everyone seems to concentrate on the burnishing angle as though this is all it takes.

I finished one end of the second cabinet after work.

This was the end in its rough state. This is with a flash ...



Here is the same end planed and scraped, photo taken without a flash ...



Lots of shine to the surface. It should look good with a finish.

Regards from Perth

Derek
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