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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2011, 02:47 AM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

Your work is incredible. If it is not offensive to you, I would love to post a couple of images here of a simple - not my design - table that integrates a fret saw that would help others and possibly make it easier for them. You don't need any help, although you might like it too.

I don't want to sidetrack your thread.

Peter

Last edited by plhalle; 07-09-2011 at 02:54 AM. Reason: Clarity
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:07 AM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

Post the pics of your cutting table Peter. I'm always interested in other techniques. I need to add an apron to mine to catch all the little pieces that drop.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:48 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

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Originally Posted by trident98 View Post
Fred, I sometimes combine marquetry and inlay as in this guitar. The flames in the body are a double bevel technique as shown in Steven's book. The headstock is mother of pearl and abalone that is an inlay. I have Larry Robisons's book The Art of Inlay which is another very instructive source especially for guitars but it works for other projects as well. The mother of pearl is cut by hand with a jeweler's saw and 3/0 blades. It can take 1/2 hour just to cut one small piece but the effect is so worth it. I cut out all the pieces, glue them together and then inlay into the stock as one piece.
Tim,

What a beautiful job on the guitar. I went out and bought some of the books you spoke about in your first post and they have some great information.

Fred
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2011, 09:29 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

Below are images of a very simplistic table I cobbled together to cut veneer. I am not a big jig builder, so it just had to be functional. The table is tilted to 10 degrees which based on the thickness of the veneer I have and the blade I had been using was enough to close the kerf when gluing up. This table is designed to cut with the piece going in a clockwise direction with the blade at the left hand edge of the good piece assuming that the piece to be inserted is on the top.

And before anyone notices, I could not find a fret saw blade, so for illustration purposes I chucked in a piece of wire. The setup cuts easily with veneer. All you have to do is place your fingers under the handle and lift up. It will cut by itself on the downward stroke.

Hope that this gives you guys some ideas.

Peter









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Old 07-10-2011, 09:35 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

Very clever Peter! Simple & effective.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:04 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

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Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post
Very clever Peter! Simple & effective.


How is the coping saw attached to the slide? Looks like epoxy?
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:50 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

Thanks for the comments. The fret saw has a hole drilled thru it and then a bolt is inserted thru the drawer slide while it is in the "open position". A nut and small lock washer was then used.The epoxy was supposed to lock the fret saw so that the blade went straight up and down. Rather than playing with the epoxy, if I were to do it again, I would mount the second slide the same way. That second slide would really improve this.

Another improvement could also be a way to adjust and lock the angle. My use of a screw and if I needed more tilt a shim and a screw is rather basic

If anyone tries to do this, and it really is fun to do, get the best little full extension slides you can and test the slop. I used the quickest ones I could find and there is some play.

As always, if I can help in any way, just ask.

Peter
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:41 AM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

Laurie,

When I saw this thread I remembered you getting into veneer and your desire to do smaller projects. That is why I wanted to post this.

This is as quiet and dust containing as your Joint Master or John's heavy iron (sorry John - I haven't mentioned anything in close to a year).

Since I posted I thought about Ron thinking about how to improve and make this better. A spring below to force the blade up. I cable connected to a treadle to be operated with the foot to pull it down. UHMW plastic dovetails for accuracy, a better angle locking system. Maybe even for the most simplistic change, an offset accessary handle for the saw.

With your attention to the littlest detail, your endless appetite for knowledge, your patience, and your artistic abilities, this is just another thing that you could be world class at.

PS. When you get into this and start searching for the perfect part of a piece of veneer for a particular spot, cut a circular hole in a piece of cardboard no bigger than a quarter. Put that over your veneer. You will be able to focus on the details.

Peter

Last edited by plhalle; 07-11-2011 at 11:42 AM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 04:14 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

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Originally Posted by plhalle View Post
Thanks for the comments. The fret saw has a hole drilled thru it and then a bolt is inserted thru the drawer slide while it is in the "open position". A nut and small lock washer was then used.The epoxy was supposed to lock the fret saw so that the blade went straight up and down. Rather than playing with the epoxy, if I were to do it again, I would mount the second slide the same way. That second slide would really improve this.

Another improvement could also be a way to adjust and lock the angle. My use of a screw and if I needed more tilt a shim and a screw is rather basic

If anyone tries to do this, and it really is fun to do, get the best little full extension slides you can and test the slop. I used the quickest ones I could find and there is some play.

As always, if I can help in any way, just ask.

Peter
Okay, so what's the difference between a fret saw and a coping saw?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2011, 04:57 PM
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Default Re: Jewelry box and Marquestry

The fret saw worries, but the coping saw just deals with it.
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