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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2010, 06:58 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

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Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
Go with the embedded track. Cut it into short lengths and set it into grooves routed into the counter top.

Put a stop in the track for indexing. A weld nut with a short set screw through it will make a stop that doesn't protrude above the track
This is what I had in mind. Woodpeckers offers either a T-track nut (recessed) and a T-track block (stands proud). If you do use T-track, you may want to check that your choice of stops (and other accessories) will work with the brand/style of T-track you have before you install the T-track in your top.

Last edited by Corwin; 01-21-2010 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:29 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

They're only 2.25" high.


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Originally Posted by GregMann View Post
Maybe this is dumb but what about hingeingthem so that you can swing them back to the wall when you want more counterspace? They will take up some room back there but you need to store them somewhere anyway, and if you need another cut as Eiji points out, they are still indexed to your saw.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:31 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

Eiji,

One of the main reasons is the counter is shared with my pocket hole driller and the miter saw. Most of the time if pocket holing it's not a big deal because I'm doing the end of the board. I assemble carcass to face frame on unexposed ends with pocket hole screws, so I need the counter top when doing pocket holes on panels. I'll still be able to use the saw, just have to use a tape measure instead of the productionstops.

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Originally Posted by EijiFuller View Post
Why do you want it removable. IME as soon as I break something down or soon there after I realize I need to make a few more cuts.

I would leave it up permanently or make a mitersaw station on wheels that can still be used after moving.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:35 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

Ron,

It will be freestanding... I guess if I use the T track I'd cut slots front to rear on the horizontal piece so that the fence can move forwards and backwards. The T track block in Corwins post would help with registering for distance but will also stick up. Michaels comment about an embedded nut would work to keep it under the counters surface.


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Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post
How about if the Kreg track was mounted to the back board as in the drawing but with an "L" leg going toward the wall so the whole thing was free standing with a "flat hook" that would hook or reference in your miter saw well (it could even be attached there with a couple of wing nuts). The only other requirement might be something at the other end to stabilize it (maybe something against the wall) so it didn't have a tendency to swing or pivot when you push stock against the Kreg stop. Then there would be no holes anywhere on the table (except maybe in the saw well) and the whole thing would lift off & go on a wall hanger.
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:10 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

Here's a couple more photo's so you can see scale, etc. The stops on the left are 6+ feet and 4+ feet to the right. The + is because the rail is 6' but the measurement goes to the blade center.




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Old 01-21-2010, 10:47 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

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Originally Posted by ChrisM View Post
Ron,

It will be freestanding... I guess if I use the T track I'd cut slots front to rear on the horizontal piece so that the fence can move forwards and backwards. The T track block in Corwins post would help with registering for distance but will also stick up. Michaels comment about an embedded nut would work to keep it under the counters surface.
I think this is what Corwin meant.



For only $2 that's a sweet bit of hardware.
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:55 PM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

The photos help a lot Chris, nice shots too.

As far as replacing the Dewalt chop saw, you'll just have to get another chop saw. No SCMS will fit that space, except the Kapex. (bet you designed it that way on purpose)

The grooves you route for embedding T track will need to be enough longer than the track length that the fence rail fastener can exit the track. Or, totally un-thread the bolt from the nut each time.
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:35 AM
Perfect Little Angel
 
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

OOOOh I like that one Michael. I didn't see it before.


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Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
I think this is what Corwin meant.



For only $2 that's a sweet bit of hardware.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 01:39 AM
Perfect Little Angel
 
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

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Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
As far as replacing the Dewalt chop saw, you'll just have to get another chop saw. No SCMS will fit that space, except the Kapex. (bet you designed it that way on purpose)
I'm not dropping another $1,300 on one though. I already have one that I use daily so it's just not worth it for a back up saw. I've been looking for a used one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
The grooves you route for embedding T track will need to be enough longer than the track length that the fence rail fastener can exit the track. Or, totally un-thread the bolt from the nut each time.
Michael, Took me a minute to understand what you were getting at here. What about cutting a notch somewhere in the track so that the bolt can be slid and lifted out much like a bolt in a toilet flange?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2010, 01:46 AM
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Default Re: Design Idea's for Miter Saw Fence

Seeing the photos of your benches, saw and fences, I would probably install T-tracks from the front edge back at least half way to the rear, if not all the way back. I would use both type stops I mentioned earlier. A recessed stop can be left in place in each track to locate a block-type stop -- the block-type stops could then be removed when you remove you fences. I would cut slots to attach the base that you mount your fence onto that are parallel to the fence (perpendicular to the T-track) to allow you to zero the fence scales to the blade.

There are many ways to do this, but I hope this helps.
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