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Other Non-Festool Tools Hand tools, clamps, measuring, and all that other stuff

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2009, 11:52 PM
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Default Re: Pencils and sharpeners

Michael,

I've been using Pentel leads for a long time and bought new within the last two years. They still snap for me.

Also, one thing that I like about a lead holder is that they are like a wood pencil - the lead doesn't move. Mechanical pencil lead wiggles a bit. Not a killer, but it bugs me.

Regards,

Dan.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 04:08 AM
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Default Re: Pencil sharpener help

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanClark View Post
Seth,

The white gunk is thinset. I'm cutting tile right now and the 4B (softest) lead works great for marking a cut line on tile. I use a somewhat harder lead (I think HB) for marking on wood.

You'll notice that the lead cleaner is missing on my pointer. I need to replace it.

Regards,

Dan.
Aah, thinset, of course

Yeah, I like the HB for marking wood. But the 2B works the best in my Woodpeckers T square.

Seth
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 04:12 AM
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Default Re: Pencil sharpener help

Quote:
Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post
The "white gunk" is an insert that you push your freshly sharpened point into to wipe off the excess residue. Those are replaceable once it gets too dirty. Back in the day, we would use the filters off of old cigarettes instead of buying the regular inserts.
The plastic or polymer leads were (are) for drawing on Mylar as you said. Nobody liked that job back then, it's kind of waxy & smears easily. The preference was for drawing on velum but the Mylar made sharper images for transfer to microfilm.
Another drawing technique used to be to sharpen the lead to a "chisel" point on a sharpening pad (sandpaper). Those would stay sharp longer than the point from a pointer. Also a very good technique to use with compass leads.
The advent of "Pentels" speeded things up because you didn't need to stop & sharpen them. Then came CAD and the rest is history... probably a minimum of a 10:1 productivity improvement.

No, the white gunk on Dan's pencil pointer. It's thinset

I never liked drawing on mylar. Didn't care much for inking either.


Seth
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 04:41 AM
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Default Re: Pencil sharpener help

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Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
I was in Staples Tuesday and it doesn't seem the actual Pentels have changed much in the past 30 years. There was a Mars Staedtler pencil that is a newer design and has a second lead clamp very close to the business end of the pencil. They claim this allows use of more than 97% of the lead. On cheap mechanical pencils you get about 75% utilization.


But this one is for serious sharpening.



"KUM®-Automatic® Stop pencil sharpener makes long pencil point in 2 steps; automatic brake prevents oversharpening; magnesium alloy; 2 spare blades. Includes lead pointers for 2mm and 3.15mm leads.

Shape the wood and then the lead to an extra long precise point. In the first hole you shape the wood until the automatic stop. The second hole shapes only the lead until the automatic stop."

Yup, that is the sort of sharpener I was looking for.

I think this is the new one you saw in Staples Staedtler Integrity Double-Clutch Automatic Pencil, 0.5mm - Pencil Things

Seth
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 02:03 PM
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Default Re: Pencil sharpener help

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Originally Posted by SRSemenza View Post
Yup, that is the sort of sharpener I was looking for.

I think this is the new one you saw in Staples Staedtler Integrity Double-Clutch Automatic Pencil, 0.5mm - Pencil Things

Seth

That's it Seth. I'm not sure the rather blunt point is acceptable for ruling but I like the idea.

By the way, Google has already found your post with the link and it's on the first page of search results. Match that Bing!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 02:24 PM
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Default Re: Pencils and sharpeners

In another post I mentioned that rotating the pencil while you rule a line will keep the point sharp. I've just learned that the Japanese have developed a pencil that rotates the lead for you while you draw.


It is the Uni-ball Kuru Toga Auto Lead Rotation Mechanical Pencil



"I haven’t pulled the mechanism apart but clearly the concept is that the lead-holding jaws are mounted on a toothed clutch. Each time you press down to write the clutch teeth engage and the sliding faces cause the lead to be rotated around a fraction. The trick then is the constant lifting and pressing back down as you write. The clutch is springing apart and back together, rotating each time. Now this is a 0.5mm pencil, so a chisel edge on the lead isn’t a huge deal, but still, it’s a heck of an idea. There is also a 0.3mm version. Now that would be a sharp point! Still, Uni extol the virtues of the constantly sharp point for neat precise writing, and a reduction in lead breakage."





"You know, to some extent it almost doesn’t matter how well this pencil works or not, it’s the thought that counts. These sorts of ideas and innovations are occurring in Japan, not elsewhere. Just look at that booklet! This is clearly the product of a design team and company that really think about their product and their market, see a future, try something new, move forward, and not just think, “Oh, it’s a pencil, we’ll always sell them, but there’s nothing much ever going to happen with pencils! They’re a cash-cow, just milk them.”

A user review,

"The rotation mechanism does work. It is a very unique pen. However, the problem I've encountered is that this pen is most likely geared towards writing Chinese or Japanese. The rotating mechanism only works when the pencil is pressed down and depressed (this happens a lot when writing chinese/japanese characters). I write in cursive, so i find that the mechanism doesn't work to its full potential for me."

Since that pencil was introduced a year ago or more they have produced a nicer spec version that is even better and twice at twice the price.


Uni-ball Kuru Toga High Grade Auto Lead Rotation Mechanical Pencil




"...gives you an amazingly thin line. You are effectively using only 50% of the lead area that you were previously using with your old mechanical pencil. Thus, a 0.3/0.5 mm Kuru Toga will write incredibly thin lines and have less breakage than a standard 0.3/0.5 mm mechanical pencil."

A user review of the high grade version,

"The new Kura Toga pencil with the Aluminum grip is flat out the best pencil I own. I have the original Kura Toga pencil I thnik that is a great pencil too, however, the new aluminum grip Kura Toga pencil has the added weight that balances the pencil just the righrt way. In fact if Kura Toga had .3 and .7 version of this pencil I would consider this to be the best drafting pencil on the market."

Sounds good to me. If only my drawing arm wasn't broken...

Last edited by MichaelKellough; 07-05-2009 at 02:51 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 03:15 PM
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Default Re: Pencil sharpener help

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Originally Posted by SRSemenza View Post
No, the white gunk on Dan's pencil pointer. It's thinset

I never liked drawing on mylar. Didn't care much for inking either.


Seth
My mistake, I jumped in there because I didn't think you were familiar with pointers. I forget most everyone on here has multiple past lives.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 03:47 AM
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Default Re: Pencils and sharpeners

MK,

That rotating pencil is neat. Trouble is I would probably rotate the rotating pencil

It is one of those things that once learned is hard not to do. I catch myself rotating ball point pens if drawing along a straight edge with one.

Ron,
Just to be clear I never actually worked in drafting. But three years in high school including an independent study and one in college....well you still learn things. After that I moved on to my next life.

Seth
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 12:55 PM
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Default Re: Pencils and sharpeners

Quote:
Originally Posted by SRSemenza View Post
MK,

That rotating pencil is neat. Trouble is I would probably rotate the rotating pencil

It is one of those things that once learned is hard not to do. I catch myself rotating ball point pens if drawing along a straight edge with one.

Ron,
Just to be clear I never actually worked in drafting. But three years in high school including an independent study and one in college....well you still learn things. After that I moved on to my next life.

Seth
I know what you mean Seth. Also, I've read that the new Staedtler with the end clutch might cause more lead breakage. Usually mech pencils end with a sleeve that allows the lead to bend a little when placed on the paper but the end clutch concentrates the stress into just the mm or so sticking out.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2009, 02:37 AM
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Default Re: Pencils and sharpeners

Late to the discussion, but (being a pencil fanatic) have to throw in my 2 cents. I've been a fan of Dan's method for years -- LOVE those German lead holders and leads, some sharp and some blunt. Sometimes I use a pointer, but more often than not I use sandpaper -- just because I like the process.

But NOW... well, I gotta get me one of those Japanese pencils (thanks, Michael!) ASAP. Because it's not possible to have too many pencils.

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