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| Non-Festool Tips and Techniques Those light bulb ideas and methods that make work and life easier. |
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I have written a couple of pieces on “four squaring” and thicknessing by hand, and these are on my website. Here I want to describe a technique that I recently began using when thicknessing boards. I have not seen it elsewhere, but I am very aware that I may likely be re-inventing the wheel.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AThicknessingTechnique.html Regards from Perth Derek
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It's probably my own lack of ability and experience, but I'd think it would be much harder to put an even chamfer on an edge than to mark a line with a marking gauge or knife. And the chamfer would have to be even to get a flat board.
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I don't have as many Festools as Fred
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Quote:
Those were my thoughts as well. |
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I think you guys missed a step. You use the marking gauge as normal. Then cut the bevel to the marking gauge line. The bevel's shape, size and angle are not important at all, as long as it is cut to the marking gauge line. It is just easier to check your progress by glancing at the bevel than it is to look at the edge of the board.
Clever. Of course, 12 seconds in a thickness planer would solve the whole issue. ![]() |
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Well some people obviously have alot more time on there hands and are ready for a good workout.
Im working on some more music stands in curly maple and that requires alot of hand planing (tearout issues). Man I have got some sore triceps! ![]() I dont think we missed a step though. It seems to me that it would be very easy to over shoot the marked line whilst beveling. |
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You're right, Jeff: unlike Eiji I did miss a step. But I still wouldn't trust my technique to get the chamfer even with the line...
I'm working some curly maple these days, and I have to say that I love my Rotex!
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I don't have as many Festools as Fred
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