Strange: they open up on mine and I would like to know how that happens. Anyway, I have re-posted those pictures.

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Philip Marcou

Adjuster pegs which fit into the holes on Veritas blades must also fit the blades I make, so that the blades are interchangeable
.
I turn them from square bar which I first surface grind true and square then mount in the four jaw independent chuck with the help of a clock gauge to centralise .
and the peg diameter needs to be within the range 6.350mm to 6.357mm so that it fits mine best but also fits the Veritas.

I ream the blade holes to 1/4inch -but the ream is a loose fit in Veritas blades most of the time meaning that the holes are slightly larger than 1/4inch.The same ream is a tight fit in my blades.
Why the fixation over a good fit? Because sloppiness here results in lost motion (back lash) in the adjuster. The other area with potential for inducing back lash is the adjuster thread-and I can virtually eliminate that by partially turning the 36tpi thread and finishing with a guided high quality adjustable die (imported from England at great expense). I want to see a custom made plane with less back lash or a more silky smooth action than mine.....

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Philip Marcou

Another S20A comes to life..... My Rhodesian Teak is all but finished so if anybody out there is teetering on the edge of decision now is the time for action.
Here are comments on the final assembly ritual:-
I use shim stock strips of .01mm (half-a-thou) thickness as a back up check that the sole is reasonably flat. If anything the sole may be slightly concave and it can be detected wherever the shim stock pulls out with less resistance. On occasion the plane may go back to the surface grinder and I skim at most another 1thou off.
I usually "sign" the work under the knob base , using an engraver.
I use CRC "Soft Seal" on the knob post and the handle bolt to protect against rust .
The brass handle base is fixed to the sole with five screws and Lock Tite.
The adjuster unit is also treated with Lock Tite and the threads and peg head get either Copper Molyslip grease or that Nickel base grease which is Nuclear Grade : excellent stuff and I have used it on many things such as exhaust manifold bolts . Now you know how I get that super smooth silky action on the adjuster.....

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Philip Marcou

Phillip, please stop posting photos of your art works. I'm beginning to hear that voice in my head: "Need one of those, need one of those"
Perhaps you could use a cheaper camera so as not to show those nuclear grade mitres in all their glory so well.
Oh, and, ahhh...you don't have a block plane on the drawing board perchance?
I really do need one of those.

Chris, I confirm that you do need an S20A or J20A, preferably both- absolutely essential to your well being.Don't dilly dally, Christmas is just around the corner and my stock of prime Rhodesian Teak is all but finished.
If you define a block plane as a plane with blade bevel up then it is a simple matter for you to satisfy that deep craving once and for all, as the aforementioned planes are bevel up, as are the M12 and S15A too.
If your vision of a block plane is something along the lines of a #220 then I have no plans to make that type as Lie Nielsen and Veritas mass produce satisfactory versions , especially those with skew blade.
However I do have plans to make a less expensive plane having no adjuster and about the size of an S55A, if I finish the present orders and find that there are no orders on hand. It will be legendary in its own right, as usual
Meanwhile, prepare to feast your eyes upon the next M12 which is about to be assembled.....

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Philip Marcou

Philip, I have heard of a 'trick' from an old (80's) friend of mine who was a ships cabinetmaker. He said that some of the new guys in the shipyard used a thin layer of epoxy under their handles which gave them a very good seat onto the metal but did not 'stick' to the metal. I am not sure if they put some glad-wrap or the like under it, but it sounds like not a bad way to get a good registration between the tote, knob and body.

Ever heard of this? I am thinking of giving it a go to tame an old Sargent 4-1/2 I have.

Groggy, what is the problem with your Sargent? Epoxy will certainly fill and level gaps etc that you might get when the casting is not smooth, or if the tote won't sit flat because of hole mis-alignment/incorrect angle.
But then again a file and scraper will sort out the casting base and another plane/sanding block would sort out the tote bottom. Maybe the ship only had one plane and no files or scrapers.
Epoxy is often good for a quick and ugly fix- I know someone who filled one of his teeth with it (he had to find another dentist).

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Philip Marcou

The Sargent is a problem child of mine. I have seated the frog quite well, even used machinist blue to make sure it seats evenly, but it does not feel right in use. It cuts ok but I can feel a 'grittiness' when cutting that makes me want to just put it down.

The tote is a little slack and needs a repair near the top as a split has almost travelled through the thumb recess. The tote also feels like it rocks on it's seat during use.

You should have got one of these : (guaranteed Grit Free) See here: https://picasaweb.google.com/philipm...urbishedPlanes

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Philip Marcou

An M12 is taking shape. The bed is attached then both the ramp and the bed get about 4 thou milled off to make sure they are co-planar. After this the sides get drilled for the cross pin then it can be assembled.

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Philip Marcou