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Old 01-13-2011, 01:12 AM
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Default Low angle block plane, prototype

I have been working on an idea for a low angle wood block plane. Thought I'd post some pics up here and get your thoughts.
Here is the first drawing I did. The idea hit me while at my inlaws for Christmas:

From block, to pieces, to block again:




And here we go:

Only one problem, that nice thin edge of wood support behind the edge of the bevel up blade. Its too weak. Once I tapped that wedge in, it pushed the thin edge out. It broke at the glue lines.

That made the bottom of the plane no longer flat, which is really bad obviously, and opened the mouth up, also bad. So I cut the bottom off:

And glued on a new Ebony sole:

Cutting the mouth opening and flattening the bed again was a chore:


And I screwed it up :

That is a HUGE mouth!!! Yikes. I'm embarrassed to even post it honestly. I thought I had sufficiently flattened the new Ebony part of the bed in line with the Osage part. I hadn't. So when I wedged the blade in place without realizing this, I saw where I thought the edge needed to come through, and proceeded to open the mouth with a file. By the time I realized what I'd done, it was way too late.
So I fixed the bed, which helped the iron to wedge tight much nicer. I also shaped the wedge so that it clamped onto the iron in the front and back, with a slight arch in the middle. The top of the wedge I also slightly arched convex front to back. This made fitting the wedge much nicer, and it also wedges VERY tight. This is good!
So, as you saw from the tiny curly shavings in the mouth opening picture, it still works quite nicely for rounding corners:



Here is how it looks right now, still rough:

The bed is at 12 and the iron is sharpened at 25, giving a cutting angle of 37.
I am thinking of making the next prototype with a 15 bed angle, iron bevel of 20, giving a 35 cutting angle.

The 12 for reference:


I'm still concerned about that thin wood right behind the blade, which is one of the reasons for increasing the bed angle. The prototype takes very little pressure to lock the wedge in, so that helps. Securely wedged, there has been no deflection in the Ebony sole so far. Not sure if that will change over time though. I did a little research on wood strength, and looking at Modulus of Elasticity (MOE, stiffness) ratings, I think Purpleheart may be a great wood for this plane.
Anyone know of a good online source for MOE ratings? Also, any ratings that I have found have been for longitudinal grain direction. I would love to see rating on tangential. Is it safe to assume strength in longitudinal MOE would mean the same for tangential?
Any ideas for a wood to use?
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:16 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

No matter what species I use, I will have to glue a one piece sole on it I think. That glue line with the thin material is just too weak. Its entirely possible that I just didn't sufficiently glue the pieces at those thin points on my prototype of course. I'd rather not find out the hard way again though.
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:27 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

That's pretty sweet Scott.
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:28 PM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky977 View Post

I'm still concerned about that thin wood right behind the blade, which is one of the reasons for increasing the bed angle. The prototype takes very little pressure to lock the wedge in, so that helps. Securely wedged, there has been no deflection in the Ebony sole so far. Not sure if that will change over time though. I did a little research on wood strength, and looking at Modulus of Elasticity (MOE, stiffness) ratings, I think Purpleheart may be a great wood for this plane.
Anyone know of a good online source for MOE ratings? Also, any ratings that I have found have been for longitudinal grain direction. I would love to see rating on tangential. Is it safe to assume strength in longitudinal MOE would mean the same for tangential?
Any ideas for a wood to use?
There is lots & lots of data available for metals. I've never done any type calculations for timbers but I would think that being a very ductile material comparing them (species) for cumulative fatigue damage is probably better done by actual testing than calculation. I was wrong one other time though...

(Great looking plane!)
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:25 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

Scott,
why not just go with a bevel down design with a 30-40 degree bed. That was what I was planning on for a miter plane and low angle block. Seems that would simplify things and be alot more robust.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:07 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

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Originally Posted by EijiFuller View Post
Scott,
why not just go with a bevel down design with a 30-40 degree bed. That was what I was planning on for a miter plane and low angle block. Seems that would simplify things and be alot more robust.
Two things come to mind -- the bevel down config would then require a cap iron (and maybe a frog???) making it more complex to build. The other is that it would limit the adjustment of bevel angles for wood varieties. You can add back bevels to the BD iron but not near the flexibility of the BU.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:16 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

One thing I am trying to accomplish with this plane is one handed use, like a normal block plane. A 30-40 angle puts the end of the iron and the wedge at a bad location for that. I will be making a shooting board plane with a 35 bed though.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:20 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

Oh, and I was looking through one of my wood books, and I think Goncola Alves would be perfect for this plane. Its very strong and stiff, but medium on bending strength. So not so bendy that it will flex easily under wedge pressure, but not so unyielding so as to make it overly brittle.
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:50 AM
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Default Re: Low angle block plane, prototype

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Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post
Two things come to mind -- the bevel down config would then require a cap iron (and maybe a frog???) making it more complex to build. The other is that it would limit the adjustment of bevel angles for wood varieties. You can add back bevels to the BD iron but not near the flexibility of the BU.
Im not sure i agree for the need but having a chip breaker doesn't complicate a thing and frogs aren't relevant. I see how the iron would be in the palm though. Maybe there's a design challenge there but I think ill stick with bevel downs.
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