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| General Woodworking Q & A Had a tip to share or a general question to ask? This is the place. |
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Did you use Domino tenons (I think I remember that you have one) on the board edges or just butt them together? That is also a pretty slick glue-up fixture -- what brand is it? I'd like to see more of your bench, did you build it yourself? I'm collecting ideas to build one.
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a 2009 FestoolŪ catalog, 2010 FestoolŪ catalog supplement requested. "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." - Yogi Berra (1925-) "Whether you THINK YOU CAN, or THINK YOU CAN'T, You're right!" "When it is obvious that the goals cannot be reached, don't adjust the goals, adjust the action steps." Confucius (551-479 BCE) philosopher |
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Geez Okamisan. Just gluing up a panel you look so much more like a woodworker than the rest of us! Nice work!
I'd also like to know more about that panel clamp thing. What applies the lateral pressure on the boards? How big a panel can you put in there? How many panels at once? It looks a lot like a metal version of some clamps we saw at Tyme's shop - I think they might have been Veritas, but I don't think they make them any more. I'll have to check... Love those curlies!
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I don't have as many Festools as Fred
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).When doing a multiple board glue-up, the X is on opposite sides of each board edge (same board), the plane fence matches up with the X while planning each board edge and the X's are staggered on opposite faces during glue-up -- is that how it goes?
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a 2009 FestoolŪ catalog, 2010 FestoolŪ catalog supplement requested. "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." - Yogi Berra (1925-) "Whether you THINK YOU CAN, or THINK YOU CAN'T, You're right!" "When it is obvious that the goals cannot be reached, don't adjust the goals, adjust the action steps." Confucius (551-479 BCE) philosopher |
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I don't think that's quite it, Ron. Once the boards are laid out, the top of (say) the right-hand edge board gets an x. The bottom of the board adjacent to it gets an x. The top of the next board gets an x, and the bottom of the next one, and so on.
Doing it that way ensures that even if the fence if off square, the angles are all complementary, so the joints leave the boards flat with no gaps. The joints may not be at 90 degrees to the board faces, but that doesn't matter as long as adjacent boards have matching angles.
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I don't have as many Festools as Fred
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It's those dammed drugs you know.
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a 2009 FestoolŪ catalog, 2010 FestoolŪ catalog supplement requested. "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." - Yogi Berra (1925-) "Whether you THINK YOU CAN, or THINK YOU CAN'T, You're right!" "When it is obvious that the goals cannot be reached, don't adjust the goals, adjust the action steps." Confucius (551-479 BCE) philosopher |
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Hi Ron & Potosan
,Yes, I used some 5mm domino's on this glue up, just for good measure. I usually use biscuits, but I've run out With the clamping jig, it's not really needed.The bench is my creation. It's a bit rough, and the materials used were cheapy, but the joinery is solid, and it's held up well for years of daily use. Here's a picture of how I mark the X's for multiple board glue-up. Hope the pictures explain Yes the Veritas fence is always on the X side of the board.Those clamps are made by a company in the Czech Republic. The company is called York, and they have a sound reputation. Here's a closer picture. It might help explain where the lateral clamping comes from. They can clamp up to 120cm, or 47" wide, and 2" thick (50mm) They've paid for themselves time and time again If You have some basic skills in fabrication, these probably wouldn't be too hard to make. YORK - clamping tools for tradesmen Cheers! Okami |
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Panel clamps that use a bar above as well as below the panel and pull the bars to the work as clamping pressure is applied to the work go way back, probably centuries and maybe millenia. Surprisingly I couldn't find many pictures so this will have to do.
![]() Maybe they aren't well represented online because you supply your own bar? This design utilizes opposing hinges on each end. As the hinges pins are pushed apart the leaves push the bars against the work top and bottom. An inconvenience of this design is that the wood to be assembled has to be slid in under the top bar. Some designs have springs to raise spread the bars apart but the screw has to be unwound to provide much clearance. The York design doesn't use hinges. This allows the top bar to be added after the boards are organized on the lower bars. Looks pretty quick. Veritas has another design that allows quick assembly but also requires you to make your own bars. But, it utilizes components that you might find other uses for when not working on panels. ![]() ![]() |
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I have those Veritas ones, and used them on my table-top glue up. They worked, though not as simply as I might have liked. I found that I had to clamp them vertically (a clamp squeezing the two wooden battens together vertically) after I'd put them on. That gave me enough pressure to flatten the panel. On the whole, the Bessey K-bodies did most of the work.
Probably I just need to make better battens. I used pretty low-quality 2x4 from HD, and didn't plane them smooth. But I sure like Okami's rig. I think those clamps in your top picture are the ones that Tyme had in his shop, Michael.
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I don't have as many Festools as Fred
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