Originally Posted by Okami

Hi Ron & Potosan,

Yes, I used some 5mm domino's on this glue up, just for good measure. I usually use biscuits, but I've run out With the clamping jig, it's not really needed.

The bench is my creation. It's a bit rough, and the materials used were cheapy, but the joinery is solid, and it's held up well for years of daily use.

Here's a picture of how I mark the X's for multiple board glue-up. Hope the pictures explain Yes the Veritas fence is always on the X side of the board.

Those clamps are made by a company in the Czech Republic. The company is called York, and they have a sound reputation.
Here's a closer picture. It might help explain where the lateral clamping comes from. They can clamp up to 120cm, or 47" wide, and 2" thick (50mm)
They've paid for themselves time and time again
If You have some basic skills in fabrication, these probably wouldn't be too hard to make.
YORK - clamping tools for tradesmen
Cheers!
Okami

Originally Posted by RONWEN

Hey Okami,
Help me understand the clamping process when using the York clamps.
Would you typically lay out the two (or four) bottom clamp bars (tubes) similar to as shown in the first picture, glue up & lay the wood strips on top of those bars (tubes), then slide the top clamp bars through the clamp brackets & begin to tighten the clamps? Does the top bar just "float" inside of the brackets (no pins through any holes on the top bar)? It appears that just the bottom tubes would need the holes drilled? Is that about how the process goes?
I also notice a half moon cut-out on the upper pin -- what is the purpose of the cut-out?
I don't find metric rectangular tubing available in my part of the U.S. -- do you think that either 1" x 3" tubing or 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" tubing would work with the existing (purchased) York bracket Assembly's?

Originally Posted by RONWEN

Hey Okami,
Help me understand the clamping process when using the York clamps.
Would you typically lay out the two (or four) bottom clamp bars (tubes) similar to as shown in the first picture, glue up & lay the wood strips on top of those bars (tubes), then slide the top clamp bars through the clamp brackets & begin to tighten the clamps? Does the top bar just "float" inside of the brackets (no pins through any holes on the top bar)? It appears that just the bottom tubes would need the holes drilled? Is that about how the process goes?
I also notice a half moon cut-out on the upper pin -- what is the purpose of the cut-out?
I don't find metric rectangular tubing available in my part of the U.S. -- do you think that either 1" x 3" tubing or 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" tubing would work with the existing (purchased) York bracket Assembly's?

Originally Posted by Okami

That's right Ron, I lay the bottom bars down, then spread the glue on the wood, and lay them on those bars.

I then slide the tops bars through the bracket assemblies and tighten it all up with the handle. It's real easy

Cheers!
Okami

Originally Posted by MichaelKellough

Sounds like you're going to have to fabricate new brackets to accommodate our steel tubing so stick with rectangular stock. It does seem like the brackets get levered hard against the top of the top bar when the screw is tightened so no holes are involved but only Okami knows for sure.

Maybe the flat on the pin is to hammer the top bracket loose if it gets stuck at some angle? (without denting the perimeter?)

Originally Posted by RONWEN

I agree Michael, without having my trusty Solid Works available to model it, intuitively I don't believe that 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" sq. tubing will have enough spine to accomplish keeping glue-ups flat -- which is after all the purpose of the system. The 1-1/4" sq. is available in heavier wall thicknesses but in an application like this that would pretty much just add useless weight, not the needed deeper cross section.

I'm beginning to think starting from scratch with the brackets will be the best solution.

As far as the cut-out on the top pin goes, I'm guessing there is some other unknown accessory where that comes into play.

Originally Posted by djwong

I would guess that the circular cut-out on the top pin is for clearance if you place another bar on top to clamp another board. The clearance would be for the screw shaft of the new bar.