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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2010, 10:07 PM
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Default Re: Waterborne

Ace,
We have been "on topic" way too long here... I'm sure that you are no doubt aware of Sam Snead's record of 34 holes-in-one in his career. Four double eagles. If that wasn't amazing enough he had a hole-in-one with every club in his bag excepy the putter.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2010, 05:44 AM
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Default Re: Waterborne

Quote:
Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post
Thanks.
I guess that I'll need to order something off of the net (in a reasonable quantity). What do you apply before the EM2000 to pop the grain? I would have thought the EM2000 being water based (or waterborne) would pop it. The General Finishes Topcoat also sounds good & something that I could buy in smaller quantities.
The EM2000 doesn't look as good as an oil finish alone. Target sells a water based Shelac, that they say will pop the grain and add some life to the finish. I haven't tried it, although I want to. I did try some of their new EM1000 sanding sealer, which I didn't like using (not easy to use, and made the top coats difficult). I think they may have had some glitches in the first batches
I have used just normal boiled linseed as a base coat to bring some life and colour to the wood, before laying down the EM2000. That oil really must be dry before laying down the waterborne topcoats. Kind of defeats the the whole object of using the water based products for me...
I think Eiji and others use Waterlox (spelling?) as a base coat, with good results. I haven't because it isn't available in Japan, and being an oil product can't be sent easily.
I wanted to try some of the General finishes, but I couldn't find anywhere that would send it to me, even though it's a water based product

Cheers!
Okami
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2010, 06:32 AM
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Default Re: Waterborne

I've been using Target's USL for a little over a year now and I've finally got to the point where I'm comfortable with it. I'm wrapping up a whole house job that requires glazing on the doors and I used some dewaxed shellac over the stain before I glazed. I went over top of that with a coat of USL. Everything came out nice. I ran out of USL though and picked up a gallon of Valspar's WB Pre Cat. It went down nice but I had a hard time getting a smooth finish. I either little air bubbles or the finish was contaminated (I strained before hand) because there are sporadic bumps in the finish. The Valspar did dry faster than the Target but I'll probably stick with the Target since at this point it is what I'm used to.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2010, 02:46 PM
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Default Re: Waterborne

I like to pop my woods with General Finishes Seal-A-Cell. Adds that nice amber tone. However, as Okami mentioned, very important topping an oil with a water-based, MAKE SURE its dry! I like 3 to 4 days, at the least. Remember, some woods can drink the oil deep and as the deep oil drys, can push back to the surface causing issues under the topcoat.

General Finishes has a new water-based product called Enduro-Var



Its a clearish water-based urethane. Is available in various sheen's, has a slight amber tone. I have tested it using side by side comparison with the Seal-A-Cell
oil. Golly, its hard to tell which is which. I have not coated a project with it so I can't say for sure what my complete feeling is about this product. I guess it appears the finish manufactures are sympathetic and see a need to develop a water-based "oil".

-Ace-
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2010, 04:27 PM
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Default Re: Waterborne

Quote:
Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post


I've used the SW two part systems on machines but they fall short of powder coating. You won't want to tear your grinder down periodically every few months to refinish in your showcase workshop.

Ron, I'm not experienced with belt grinders, does the machine itself really take that much punishment? It seems to me that the workpiece only ever touches the belt.

Do you have any experience with Sherwin-Williams Polane (2 part)? That was the factory original finish for both Hardinge and Bridgeport, and is what is still used by most of the remanufacturers of those machines.
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