talkFestool  

Go Back   talkFestool > Projects, Methods, and Techniques > Finishing

Finishing How you make your work look great!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 06:46 PM
MichaelKellough's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The northernmost end of the southernmost county of New York
Posts: 4,525
Default Some oil finish info

We've talked about Tung oil and it's bastardization a few times before and I found a page of good info posted by a very experienced turner.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 07:52 PM
Poto's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 8,996
Default Re: Some oil finish info

That's a great link and source of information, Michael. Thanks!

I'm working on a cutting board right now - what would you put on it (food safe)?
__________________
I don't have as many Festools as Fred. Or Marcou's, or Brese's, or Lie-Nielsen's, or Lee Valley's, or Blue Spruce's, or Harold and Saxon's, or...
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 10:42 PM
MichaelKellough's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The northernmost end of the southernmost county of New York
Posts: 4,525
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Tung oil, walnut oil, and mineral oil are all good/safe for cutting boards, I think. I'm sure you'll confirm elsewhere first.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 01:52 AM
Poto's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 8,996
Default Re: Some oil finish info

In that link they made the point that mineral oil is basically refined motor oil. They implied (without saying) that maybe you wouldn't want it on your cutting board...

Maybe some olive oil...
__________________
I don't have as many Festools as Fred. Or Marcou's, or Brese's, or Lie-Nielsen's, or Lee Valley's, or Blue Spruce's, or Harold and Saxon's, or...
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 02:16 AM
ecofurniture's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 829
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Olive oil will go bad... I would recommend Hemp oil or pure linseed oil.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 02:37 AM
joraft's Avatar
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Fernando Valley (SoCal)
Posts: 6,575
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poto View Post

In that link they made the point that mineral oil is basically refined motor oil. They implied (without saying) that maybe you wouldn't want it on your cutting board...

Maybe some olive oil...
I've been using mineral oil on my boards for years.

And there's nothing wrong with me!

Seriously, it's sold in pharmacies as a laxative. How bad could it be when applied as a thin film on a cutting board?
__________________
John

Last edited by joraft; 09-21-2009 at 03:00 AM.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 02:43 AM
MichaelKellough's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: The northernmost end of the southernmost county of New York
Posts: 4,525
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecofurniture View Post
Olive oil will go bad... I would recommend Hemp oil or pure linseed oil.
Do you mean un boiled linseed oil? As in Raw linseed oil? How long does that take to dry? Not that mineral oil dries either.

Last edited by MichaelKellough; 09-21-2009 at 02:45 AM.
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2009, 03:01 AM
ecofurniture's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 829
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post
Do you mean un boiled linseed oil? As in Raw linseed oil? How long does that take to dry? Not that mineral oil dries either.
It will take a couple of days to dry... Make sure to only apply a very thin coat!

"processed oils" all have some dryer additives in them, most of them contain heavy metals and other nasty stuff. I would certainly not want to have that touching my food!

Therefore only pure oils will be suitable for contact with food. BTW, don't trust the label "FDA approved"... they have proven them self over and over again to be wrong
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 04:11 AM
Wonderwino's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Grew up in Peekskill, NY; Now living in Northwest Kansas
Posts: 2,891
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Quote:
Originally Posted by joraft View Post
I've been using mineral oil on my boards for years.

And there's nothing wrong with me!

Seriously, it's sold in pharmacies as a laxative. How bad could it be when applied as a thin film on a cutting board?
I guess every time you dice up a salad, you get the Overnight Wonder...
__________________
Water separates the people of the world; wine unites them.

"If you have good manners and are well spoken, you can be welcome anywhere." -Mom, 1959
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 03:43 PM
joraft's Avatar
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Fernando Valley (SoCal)
Posts: 6,575
Default Re: Some oil finish info

Mineral oil's ability to prevent water absorption, combined with its lack of flavor and odor, make it a popular preservative for wooden cutting boards, salad bowls and utensils. Rubbing a small amount of mineral oil into a wooden kitchen item periodically will prevent absorption of food odors and ease cleaning, as well as maintain the integrity of the wood, which is otherwise subjected to repeated wetting and drying in the course of use. The oil fills small surface cracks that may otherwise harbor bacteria.

It is occasionally used in the food industry, particularly for candy. In this application, it is typically used for the glossy effect it produces, and to prevent the candy pieces from adhering to each other. It has been discouraged for use in children's foods, though it is still found in many candies, including the popular movie theater treat Swedish Fish.

It can be used as a release agent for baking pans and trays, but food oils like vegetable oil are a more popular choice.

Mineral oil is also often used as a coating on metal tools and weapons, knives in particular, as a way to inhibit oxidation. The Japanese swords Nihonto, for example, are traditionally coated in Choji oil which consists of 99% mineral oil and 1% oil of cloves. The use of oil of cloves is sometimes explained as a means of differentiating sword oil from cooking oil to prevent accidental ingestion, but may also be purely aesthetic.

Mineral oil can be used as a leather conditioner as well, though most shoe polishes use naphtha, lanolin, turpentine and Carnauba wax instead.

It can also be used as a wood preservative. A light coating of mineral oil, rubbed into well-sanded wood, provides an easy-to-apply and relatively durable finish, without the odor or drying time (or toxicity) of varnish or urethane.
__________________
John
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:46 PM.