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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 02:14 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

Thanks Michael - I'll have to think about this. I like the idea of a true tung oil finish - it'll go with the almost-tung-oil-finish of my other pieces. It'll take longer to apply, but that shouldn't be too big a deal with these pieces.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 02:25 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

I made a cherry dining table a few months ago and used the Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" because I didn't have enough time left before delivery for the true Tung oil to dry. It made a nice finish but after touring the Thos Moser showroom in Manhatten with Jay I regret that I didn't get to use the real stuff.

I know Moser uses an oil varnish mixture (like the Minwax product) but it seems to be weighted more towards the oil side because the grain was still pleasingly apparent in all the pieces. After looking at all that stuff I told Jay I was sure now that cherry is my favorite wood.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:49 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

I'm with you on that one, Michael. I love the look and feel (and workability) of cherry. And it goes so well with so many other woods - maple and walnut especially.

So what do I do if I use the true tung oil to finish the table, and it makes all my other pieces look shabby?
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:41 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

.

Peter,

Just something to keep in mind when applying Tung Oil.... process wise.

After you apply the Tung oil with a lint free cotton rag,- don't over apply, let it go for a while....about 30 minutes, perhaps less if it's a warm day down in San Diego. You then want to lightly remove the excess......you don't want to get it to the point where it gets sticky when you do that. After you've done all that and let it go to the next day, what I've found extremely helpful is to use a rubbing lubricant with steel wool about a 3ot-(000) dab it in this stuff with a little water and lightly rub down your surface between coats. ( the consistancy of the Rubbing lubricant is like jellified amber liquid soap) By using this you prevent the steel wool from breaking apart into itty bitty pieces (like steel wool dandruff) over your work. It also eases the process. You then wipe it with a very light damp cloth let it dry then repeat the tung oil process ///// rubbing each time between coats. After about 3 to 4 coats you start seeing your finish. by the way, this was my finish for the Ark project.

this is the stuff I use (the paste version).... Wool-Lube™ Rubbing Lubricant - Mohawk Finishing

,,,,r


.

Last edited by RogerSavatteri; 06-29-2009 at 03:43 AM.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:55 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

So what do I do if I use the true tung oil to finish the table, and it makes all my other pieces look shabby?[/quote]

Do you REALLY have to ask? Fire up that sander and refinish everything else

Jay
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 04:04 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

I was just reading the FWW (#178) review of wipe-on finishes. He really liked the Minwax wipe-on poly. Has anyone used it? It's a lot cheaper (and dries faster and seems less fussy) than the polymerized tung oil. Which is appealing...

I'm thinking it'll be a lot more waterproof too (according to FWW).

P.S. Thanks for the thoughts, Roger. I'm concerned about the size of the table, vs. temperature and humidity in SD (and more specifically, my garage). I could imagine ending up with a big sticky mess...
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Old 06-29-2009, 06:36 AM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

the tung oil doesnt have to be compatible with the WB. The shellac will act as the binder coat as long as the tung oil has had a chance to cure. I suggested the tung oil first to get you the same color and grain enhancement of your other pieces. the EM2000 on top will be for durability. Wipe on poly is not a good choice for the table top since the finish will be so thin unless you wiped on about 30 coats.

You could finish the entire piece the same as all your other furniture and then shellac and spray just the top for durability. if you go that route it will be super easy to get a really nice finish on the table top and edges.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:19 PM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

I use Minwax Wipe on Ploy a lot (usually the Satin version). It's very convenient to use on smaller projects and where you don't have to smell it while it cures. But, it is a film finish and tends to fill grain more than oils do. It is a very good compromise between wiping ease/drying time, thinness/protection, and it doesn't smell too bad. And the fact that you can get it in Satin sheen makes me keep going back to it. I rarely have enough time for true Tung oil. The final coat on that cherry table I mentioned was Satin Wipe on Poly. The Satin component (silica) makes it look less like a film.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 04:51 PM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table

Thanks Eiji and Michael. I wasn't sure that other finishes would bind to the tung oil - sounds like they would. I'll ponder it a while longer, but please keep the suggestions coming!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2009, 06:03 PM
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Default Re: Finish for a diningroom table


PRETTY SMOOTH, HA ?, MOM

OK Potosan, I hate to get into this but this is what I do.
Sand
Apply sanding sealer (wax free shellac)
Sand
Sanding sealer
Filler on open grain wood
sand
Behlen's Rock hard table top varnish, thinned 10%
Wet sand with 220
varnish
wet sand
varnish
wet sand
Varnish
wet sand
varnish
wet sand, 600
Polish, pumice/ rotten stone
Or Menzera polish (Target Coatings, 1-800-752-9922)
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