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Old 03-14-2009, 02:50 PM
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Default Edge Joining Glue Up

Since I'm new in woodworking I'm not embarrased to ask basic questions. I have the Domino and want to use it for everything at this point. The problem particularly in edge joining when I coat the tenons with glue (I'll use Titebond III) and also coat the mating edges of the boards being joined, clamp the pieces together the glue oozes out and requires being wiped off of the finish surfaces. With other wood glues that I have used this seems to seal the grain prohibiting even staining or finishing of the surface. I haven't actually used the Titebond III product yet but I assume I'll get the same "sealing" effect that I have in the past with other wood glues. Is it a matter of sanding the finish surface enough to remove the sealed area? I can't imagine using so little glue on the edges that none would ooze out. Is there a better glue product for this purpose?

Thanks for your help.

Ron
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:14 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

This is a problem (as when gluing we all think the more the better). You want to minimize your squeeze out, and if it's something your staining rather than painting don't wipe. It's really hard not to but if just smears it over a larger area and pushes it deeper in the wood. You should let it dry for the most part and remove with a cabinet scraper or small block plane. Some glues have dye additives to where they are visible under black light so you can see if you've sanded/cleaned it all off prior to finishing.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:44 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

When I can, I prefer to glue up when the stock isn't at final thickness. Often, I'll joint one face and both edges to that face, leaving the opposing face rough. I'll register everything (like dominos) to the flat face, letting the other go wild. Then scrape the glue joint and run the panel through a planer or WB sander.
If that isnt an option, I wipe it with a wet rag, and then check when I think I'm done sanding to make sure I don't have spots showing.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:47 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

Yes, definitely don't follow the Norm Abrams way of doing by wiping it with a wet cloth.
I respect Norm a lot, but every time I watch New Yankee Workshop, I cringe when he does that!

When I am doing glue ups, I try to leave my material thicker than I need, so I can plane it to final thickness after they are dry. Obviously, if your glue up is larger than your planer, you would have to use hand planes to do this.
If that is not an option, then ChrisM is right, try to keep squeeze out to a minimum.

As long as your mating surfaces have a thin even coating of glue, you should be fine.
Fine Woodworking had a great article on wood glue a couple years ago (I can't remember when exactly, I'm not at the shop to find the exact issue) that compared the strength of many different glues on tight, regular, and loose joints. It was VERY informative and if I remember correctly, helped understanding of how much glue was enough.
Also, Titebond III came out as the strongest glue!
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:50 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

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Originally Posted by RWeber View Post
When I can, I prefer to glue up when the stock isn't at final thickness. Often, I'll joint one face and both edges to that face, leaving the opposing face rough. I'll register everything (like dominos) to the flat face, letting the other go wild. Then scrape the glue joint and run the panel through a planer or WB sander.
If that isnt an option, I wipe it with a wet rag, and then check when I think I'm done sanding to make sure I don't have spots showing.
You beat me to the "glue up before final thickness" point.

When you wipe off glue with a wet rag, you don't find that it just spreads the glue further and deeper into the grain?
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:58 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

To me the "wet rag" seems counterintuitive, doesn't the wetness in effect thin the glue allowing it to penetrate deeper? What type or brand of glue do you use. The thickness planer isn't an option for the project I have in mind (a coffee table top) due to the width. I guess sanding should remove most of it. Is it better on surfaces like this to avoid staining & use an oil finish?

Thanks,
Ron
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:10 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

I don't have any planes (maybe I should?). Would the new Festool plane that is coming out in April be a good tool for this work? I'm always looking for excuses to buy more Festools...

Ron
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:11 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

Hey Ron, if you haven't given them a try yet, you ought to get a cabinet scraper. When used correctly, you will be amazes at the job it can do.
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:18 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

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Originally Posted by Sparky977 View Post

Fine Woodworking had a great article on wood glue a couple years ago (I can't remember when exactly, I'm not at the shop to find the exact issue) that compared the strength of many different glues on tight, regular, and loose joints. It was VERY informative and if I remember correctly, helped understanding of how much glue was enough.
Also, Titebond III came out as the strongest glue!

Issue 192 - July/August 2007 - Page 36
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:19 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

Quote:
Originally Posted by joraft View Post
Issue 192 - July/August 2007 - Page 36
Nice, I knew somebody here would know it.
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