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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2009, 06:38 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

I'm not wiping of any wet glue... in my shop we are using Tidebond 3. We let it squeeze out, sit for 5 minutes till it gets to the "gel stage" and then take it of with sharp chisel. No mess at all. But could cause some problems if you wait for more then an hour. After that you could lift of some junks of the wood by doing so.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2009, 06:41 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

This is what I want to get:

Small Chisel plane from Lie-Nielson. Would be great for removing those beads of glue, and so much more.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2009, 07:10 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

You know, I tried that chisel plane, Sparky. A friend (with lots of Festools) down the street had one, and let me borrow it. I have to say that I didn't like it: the angle of attack was too steep, and it tended to give a lot of tear-out. I had thought it would be the perfect tool, but it really didn't work for scraping the glue off a seam. I think the Lee Valley tool would work a lot better, and it's a lot cheaper.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2009, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

I can see that this one could do the job too:
VeritasŪ Flush Plane - Lee Valley Tools
We use one for trimming down veneer edges.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2009, 03:02 AM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

You might also try masking the area with blue painters tape, then wipe the glue squeeze out off the tape. Especially with Ply or in areas that can't be planed or scraped after glue up.
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Kapex, Domino, Trion PS 300, RO 150, ETS 150/3, Deltex 93, 2 CT 33's, OF 1400, MFT/3...
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2009, 03:51 AM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

I've gotten some really good information from the answers here. To recap, 1) When possible leave some stock to finish after gluing. 2) Apply painter's tape to protect some areas. 3) Apply enough glue to do the job but don't get carried away with it. 4) It's better to apply the glue to the domino tenon because if too much is applied in the slot it can't escape easily. 5) Resist the temtation to imediately wipe off the excess glue. 6) I need to get a scraper or plane to "lift" the bead of glue after it sets awhile -- I think that I'll experiment with the cure time of Titebond III, 5 minutes sounds too quick to me to scrape the bead off, I'm guessing more like 20 min. to 1/2 hour it would lift & not smear. 7) Don't wait too long (maybe 1 hour) & it will begin to take wood with the bead when lifted. 8) Oil finishes sound the most forgiving of glue smears. 9) In some cases applying the finish before gluing. I could see that working pretty well in a lot of areas except edge joining boards, etc.

Great help guys, I'm sure I'll have lots of other questions about things that most of you don't even give a second thought to anymore.

So, I still can't justify the new Festool planer...

Ron
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2009, 04:20 AM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

Quote:
Originally Posted by RONWEN View Post
So, I still can't justify the new Festool planer...

Ron
Hey! We never said that! Perhaps you just need a new angle...

P.S. Great summary!
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I don't have as many Festools as Fred. Or Marcou's, or Brese's, or Lie-Nielsen's, or Lee Valley's, or Blue Spruce's, or Harold and Saxon's, or...
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2009, 05:40 AM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

Seems to me that planer justification may be a little weak but there is plenty of justification for a Rotex and CT
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2009, 02:54 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

I already have those.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2009, 05:09 PM
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Default Re: Edge Joining Glue Up

Hello

Really late coming into this one

Ive done a fair bit of board glue-ups for tables, chests etc...
I always flip the boards on the jointer, so if the fence isn't set perfectly at 90, the boards edges will still be perfect.

I minimise the glue, and leave it ( I never wipe it ). I use cauls for board glue-ups, to keep it flat.. This will help in removing the glue after, and save a lot of sanding/flattening. Nothing worse than an uneven, large board glue-up.

Following those steps, the glue removal is really easy. When I take the clamps and cauls off (after an hour or so), I then remove the glue with a cabinet scraper. The glue isn't yet at the point where it's too hard, it comes off nicely.
Cabinet scrapers are cheap, but very effective. I think every woodworker should have one
Cheers!
Okami

Last edited by Okami; 03-15-2009 at 05:11 PM.
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