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Finishing How you make your work look great!

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Old 10-05-2008, 03:59 AM
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Default Cherry - a fav

Since we have a brand spankin new place to talk finishing, I'm going to leap at the opportunity to expound on a favorite treatment of mine for cherry.

We all know its problematic to stain. We all know it can blotch. One of the most common "desires" of a lot of people is to have that rich, deep, aged look to cherry, and we put all kinds of colorants on it to get it there, only to discover years later when it darkens naturally, it looks pretty nasty then.

One of the things I like about this technique is it kicks the aging into high gear, appearance wise.
One of the things I don't like is you have to have patience.

Boiled Linseed is step 1. And you can add just a couple drops of japan drier to it if you like, but you don't have to. Typical process for applying oil is to get the surface saturated and keep it that way for 10 minutes. Then wipe off everything you can and let it dry overnight.
Repeat it again, let it dry.
You can keep doing it over and over but realistically, twice gets you almost as far in the end as 7 or 8 applications. I've tried it.
You also want to ensure that when its drying nothing seeps out of a joint, a pore, anywhere. I usually let the thing alone and go about my day and take a glance a couple of hours later, touching it up with a clean rag just to be sure I don't get any little balls of oil oozing out.

After you've oiled it, start your next project. Put the cherry piece out of the way, in the corner, with an old sheet over it. Put a post it on top with the date so you remember.

30 days later its dry enough to lacquer. Yeah, that long. I tried it once at 2 weeks and the lacquer stayed squishy forever.

You can, at this point, but don't have to, put on a sealer coat of dewaxed blonde shellac. Kind of like the japan drier, its a nice ten minute insurance policy.

Then shoot it. I've used all variations of lacquer over the years, and while I like the amber you get from regular old nitro, anymore I prefer CAB acrylic. It sprays the same, but its clear, it stays that way, and its harder. Nowhere near as finicky as you're post cat / conversion finishes. You'll have to consider the specific brand and how much you're spraying at a time, but to me, if a "full" finished thickness is 5 mils dry, and you're doing 1.5 per coat (keep in mind wet mils x solids content = dry mils, so you're probably spraying 5 wet per coat) then I overshoot that by at least one coat. I'm going to take it off later anyway.

Now let that dry. Again, wait. You techincally could rub it out in 48 hours but some time when you have nothing better to do spray two scraps. Rub one two days later and the other a month later. Its easier, and better end result, if you really give it time.

Rub out. You'll get a grand piano gloss and a depth you could go fishing in. And now that you're two months from when you started putting oil on, you'll be amazed at how much darker its already gotten.

White turns to pink with the oil, to a light reddish brown in a few days, and then it just deepens almost forever.
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:41 AM
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Default Re: Cherry - a fav

Thanks for the tip, finishing is definitely my week point. It sounds like the finish product is worth the wait.
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:14 AM
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Default Re: Cherry - a fav

Try using a hydrolized linseed oil compounded into a pre cat water based varnish for a similar result in less than an hour. Target Coatings (for which I write manuals) offers a great version under the name Hybravar. One can will likely make you a covert for life. Nice hand, great chemical and water resistance, and it is self sealing. One seal coat and two build coats are all you usually need. I don't get paid to sell this stuff, but I do get paid to design and hand craft fine furniture so I am always on the lookout for superior finish products that really deliver. This one does, especially on cherry, walnut, black oak, silky oak, bubinga, rosewood and bloodwood.

Jerry


Quote:
Originally Posted by RWeber View Post
Since we have a brand spankin new place to talk finishing, I'm going to leap at the opportunity to expound on a favorite treatment of mine for cherry.

We all know its problematic to stain. We all know it can blotch. One of the most common "desires" of a lot of people is to have that rich, deep, aged look to cherry, and we put all kinds of colorants on it to get it there, only to discover years later when it darkens naturally, it looks pretty nasty then.

One of the things I like about this technique is it kicks the aging into high gear, appearance wise.
One of the things I don't like is you have to have patience.

Boiled Linseed is step 1. And you can add just a couple drops of japan drier to it if you like, but you don't have to. Typical process for applying oil is to get the surface saturated and keep it that way for 10 minutes. Then wipe off everything you can and let it dry overnight.
Repeat it again, let it dry.
You can keep doing it over and over but realistically, twice gets you almost as far in the end as 7 or 8 applications. I've tried it.
You also want to ensure that when its drying nothing seeps out of a joint, a pore, anywhere. I usually let the thing alone and go about my day and take a glance a couple of hours later, touching it up with a clean rag just to be sure I don't get any little balls of oil oozing out.

After you've oiled it, start your next project. Put the cherry piece out of the way, in the corner, with an old sheet over it. Put a post it on top with the date so you remember.

30 days later its dry enough to lacquer. Yeah, that long. I tried it once at 2 weeks and the lacquer stayed squishy forever.

You can, at this point, but don't have to, put on a sealer coat of dewaxed blonde shellac. Kind of like the japan drier, its a nice ten minute insurance policy.

Then shoot it. I've used all variations of lacquer over the years, and while I like the amber you get from regular old nitro, anymore I prefer CAB acrylic. It sprays the same, but its clear, it stays that way, and its harder. Nowhere near as finicky as you're post cat / conversion finishes. You'll have to consider the specific brand and how much you're spraying at a time, but to me, if a "full" finished thickness is 5 mils dry, and you're doing 1.5 per coat (keep in mind wet mils x solids content = dry mils, so you're probably spraying 5 wet per coat) then I overshoot that by at least one coat. I'm going to take it off later anyway.

Now let that dry. Again, wait. You techincally could rub it out in 48 hours but some time when you have nothing better to do spray two scraps. Rub one two days later and the other a month later. Its easier, and better end result, if you really give it time.

Rub out. You'll get a grand piano gloss and a depth you could go fishing in. And now that you're two months from when you started putting oil on, you'll be amazed at how much darker its already gotten.

White turns to pink with the oil, to a light reddish brown in a few days, and then it just deepens almost forever.
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:10 AM
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Default Re: Cherry - a fav

Jerry,

Does the finish you described have to be sprayed, or can it be wiped on?

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 10-07-2008, 12:26 PM
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Default Re: Cherry - a fav

Looks like it can be wiped on

Oxford Series HybriVar


Jay
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