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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2013, 05:08 PM
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Default Re: Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?

I just replaced all my splinter guards - mineral spirits to clean off the old residue, - then a quick wipe down with a tack cloth - new splinter guards have all stayed in place so far. I did make sure they were warm when I replaced them - thought that doing this outside in the winter may cause some problems - drifting snow keeps clogging the rail tracks.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2013, 03:01 PM
MichaelKellough's Avatar
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Default Re: Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?

I'm still using the heat gun to move the old black rubber strip over without removing the adhesive strip from the rail. I heat both the aluminum on the top side and the rubber strip itself and move about a half foot at a time so I can easily manage the heating process. Moving a small amount also makes it easier to keep track of how little distance I need to move the strip laterally to get a fresh cut edge without wasting the strip. A half mm is usually more than enough.

When the whole length is re-positioned I warm up the whole length with the heat gun then clamp a strip of wood to the rubber. I usually just use a whole lot of spring clamps, do something els for a while then remove them later.

I do give a little more attention to the ends. A little more heat and pressure and they stick better. And I dock the strip a couple of mm short of the end of the aluminum and miter the end/corner of the rubber to reduce snagging.


If I were to remove the adhesive I'd use something to soften the adhesive first. Citri-solve, Goof-off, mineral spirits, naptha in that order of preference depending on what's available. Naptha leaves less residue but evaporates the quickest.

Id use an old credit card as a scraper to remove the gummy stuff and then clean further with denatured alcohol or acetone.

I've read that some people scuff the rail with abrasive. I'd be reluctant to use anything coarser than 400 grit.

I think applying heat and pressure is the way to get the adhesive to stick. They call it pressure sensitive adhesive for a reason.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:02 PM
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Default Re: Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelKellough View Post

... When the whole length is re-positioned I warm up the whole length with the heat gun then clamp a strip of wood to the rubber. I usually just use a whole lot of spring clamps, do something else for a while then remove them later.

I do give a little more attention to the ends. A little more heat and pressure and they stick better. And I dock the strip a couple of mm short of the end of the aluminum and miter the end/corner of the rubber to reduce snagging.

... I've read that some people scuff the rail with abrasive. I'd be reluctant to use anything coarser than 400 grit.

I think applying heat and pressure is the way to get the adhesive to stick. They call it pressure sensitive adhesive for a reason.
Good info, Michael.

From WikiPedia (home of absolutely flawless information ):

"Pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA, self adhesive, self stick adhesive) is adhesive which forms bond when pressure is applied to marry the adhesive with the adherend. No solvent, water, or heat is needed to activate the adhesive. It is used in pressure sensitive tapes, labels, note pads, automobile trim, and a wide variety of other products.

As the name "pressure sensitive" indicates, the degree of bond is influenced by the amount of pressure which is used to apply the adhesive to the surface.

Surface factors such as smoothness, surface energy, removal of contaminants, etc. are also important to proper bonding.

PSAs are usually designed to form a bond and hold properly at room temperatures. PSAs typically reduce or lose their tack at low temperatures and reduce their shear holding ability at high temperatures; special adhesives are made to function at high or low temperatures. It is important to choose an adhesive formulation which is designed for its intended use conditions."


So, roughing the surface with PSAs is the LAST thing you want to do. The smoother the better. It doesn't work the same as paint.

Room temperature is relative (especially in a shop with no HVAC), on a July day in SoCal more heat is probably not necessary. On cooler days I would think that some heat would aid in bonding, along with a good amount of pressure.

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Old 03-05-2013, 05:16 PM
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Default Re: Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?

I had no idea that the adhesive on the strip is a PSA. Nothing has been mentioned about that on any of the other sites I've been on. So when you apply the strip, pressure must be applied along the strip, in order to form the best bond?
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:32 PM
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Default Re: Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?

I haven't read the product description but whenever a product says "self-stick", "peel-and-stick" or the like, and in general already has an integrated adhesive system (except for the old lick-and-stick paper packaging tape) it uses a pressure sensitive adhesive.

All the common adhesive tapes, Scotch tape, masking tape, the more recent blue masking tape and Frog tape, all use psa. Before blue tape when we didn't want the masking tape to stick so well that we couldn't get it off without spoiling the substrate we'd stick it to our clothes first and be very careful how we rubbed it down. Just a little pressure along the edge if it was used to mask spray paint.

Now that blue tape is kinda fool-proof in terms of wrecking the substrate on removal people need to be taught to rub the edge down if they want to mask paint. The swelling in moisture feature of Frog tape makes masking even easier but you still want keep it tight on the edge and a little pressure along the whole length is whats needed.

We want the splinter guard strip to stay on as long as possible so more pressure is called for, especially at the ends.

From the info John found on wikipedia it seems like you should keep the guide rail in a cool place to keep the strip on. Storing it in a trailer parked in the summer sun might be a good way to remove the strip.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:31 PM
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Default Re: Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?

Thanks all, for the responses. I just removed the tape from a couple of my old guides in anticipation of the new strip. The rubber strip peeled right off. I used a heat gun to peel off the adhesive strip in one piece. I cleaned off the residual adhesive with no-residue brakes parts cleaner, then cleaned that with DNA. Once the new strips get here, I'll go over the edge with DNA once again, then use clamps to help adhere the new strip. To help even out the pressure, I think I'll clamp a plywood strip to the edge, rather than clamps directly on the splinter guard. Sound about right? Hope so. Thanks again.
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