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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 01:03 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

Steve, with all of our ideas I think we have moved away from your original request for ideas of broadening your market to "non-Festool" users.
I'd suggest, with that in mind to forget the 96mm hole spacing (perhaps use 4" O.C.), forget the 20mm holes (perhaps use 1" dia.). That would allow more "standard" U.S. dimensions so most users wouldn't have to buy a 20mm bit and allow the use of clamps like the Bessey Klik clamp instead of having to buy the Festool clamps. The 4" O.C. spacing is probably more appealing to a wider market also -- it fits with the standard peg board template idea.
You would then offer "Ameri-dogs" sized for the system.
Just a thought.

Ron
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 04:04 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

Ron, your base is exactly what I had in mind.

This thread is interesting to review. Lots of good ideas but we keep getting drawn back to the Festool design. Nothing wrong with that and hopefully it will point out to others how well the Festool design must be. It's also interesting that we have ended right back on the same basic router jig that Mirko started with. I guess we can say that the rest of us have caught up to where Mirko was thinking from the beginning.

I certainly don't want to start any new "standards". There has been an American standard of 3/4 inch but I don't really like the selection of dogs. I don't see any advantage to a new standard with imperial dimensions and I'm afraid it would isolate American woodworkers in the future.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 04:10 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

Hi,


Make the base mounting slots long enough to allow adjustment between less than 96mm to over 4". And have them perpendicular to the T track. The dogs in the track are already adjustable so that would make it usable for either hole pattern spacing. The biggest problem I see to deal with in making the bit to track distance adjustable is the variety of router hole patterns.

Maybe this would need to go one step further to make it universal by having the adjustable "drilling base" attach to a mounting base.



I am not sure the 1/4" pins would work except for the first row since you would be drilling out the next row of perf board holes in the dog size bit. You would not be able to drop the 1/4" pins into the next row.

Seth
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 04:34 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

As far as the various router mounting holes I would limit it to (2) or possibly (3) popular plunge routers. That should make it manageable to create the perpendicular mounting slots for the Qwas base.

All of this discussion has got me thinking I should build another setup/cutting table with folding legs -- maybe about 48"X60" with one of the hole grids we are discussing. I like the idea of going to larger holes so I can use the Bessey Kliklamps, they are about 1/2 the price of the Festool quick clamps and come in various lengths and actually I think work a little better. They just won't fit in my MFT/3 table holes.

Buy BESSEY KliKlamp, Bar Clamps & Handscrews - Woodcraft.com


Ron
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 04:39 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

"I am not sure the 1/4" pins would work except for the first row since you would be drilling out the next row of perf board holes in the dog size bit. You would not be able to drop the 1/4" pins into the next row."

Seth[/quote]

Seth, think about "backing" accross the grid so the bored holes are behind the fresh 1/4" holes.

Ron
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2009, 04:42 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

The 1/4 inch pins could be moved so they don't line up where holes are going to routed.
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 08:32 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

Hi everybody. I'm new here. A few months ago I bought my first piece of Festool equipment. a TS55. Last week I expanded the posibilities with the MFT/3.
I don't have a huge shop like many others on this forum, but it's big enough for the MFT/3. On possible problem is airmoisture in combination with the MDF top. My shop (in the garden) isn't damp, but it isn't dry like a dessert either. I'm affraid that the MDF is going to swell as soon I as put in the shop, or maybe after some time. Dragging the MFT inside and outside my house to my shop isn't an option.
Instead of MDF I was thinking to build a new top from thick high quality plywood. What do you think about this?
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 09:44 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

Welcome to the forum. i hope you enjoy it and decide to stick around.

I'm in South Georgia and was concerned about high humidity being a problem with the MFT. My MFT has been in the shop (no AC or dehumidifiers) for 2 years and shows no signs of swelling. I think it's because of all the glue content in the actual MDF that this is a non-issue.

If you still want to swap out tops, Walko tables are using Bamboo for their tops and claim it is water resistant. Bamboo is expensive but it may be worthwhile for a top that will last years.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:10 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

Hi Qwas,
Thanks for your reply. Ah yes. Bamboo is nice, but too expensive for the top.
But what about the plywood? Why did Festool choose for MDF?
I was thinking towards plywood as shown below. 18mm
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:43 PM
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Default Re: Make Your Own MFT Top

I think Festool chose MDF because it gives a "cleaner" hole and it is dimensionally stable just like plywood. It's surface is a little rough and offers some friction to help hold items in place.

It looks like your choice of plywood is a baltic birch. Baltic birch would work nice since it has no voids of glue. It looks like your choice of plywood has a coating on one face (phenolic maybe). You might want to reconsider the coating since it will slick and slippery. While cutting boards on the MFT, would you want a slick surface or one that has some friction to help hold the board in place?
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