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Bowclamp Modern technology used to realize an age-old idea: a perfect bow shaped arc. The Bowclamp's patented design - made possible only with the help of computerized, numerically-controlled cutting technology (CNC) - allows for equal clamping pressure along the entire length of the glue line... with only one clamp at each end!

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2011, 12:49 PM
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Default Re: Shouldn't pass without mention

good morning,,,,,

OK, Since this is turning into the go-to thread about Hide Glue - I should bring up that there is a very good book about Hide Glue available from Tools for Working Wood
called Hide Glue: Historical & Practical Applications by Steven Shepard.

I remember liking it when I read it, I seem to recall the author writing about it like it was a new religion with the same fervor as a true believer. (in a good way, but a little wordy)

Gosh, now I have to dig it out and reread it!

Hide Glue: Historical & Practical Applications at Tools For Working Wood

Review of book,
Hide Glue - Historical and Practical Applications by Stephen Shepherd | Norse Woodsmith

Author's website, (look at his blog),,,,, and a nice selection of links.
ilovewood.com


.

Last edited by RogerSavatteri; 10-29-2011 at 01:04 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2011, 01:43 PM
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Default Re: Shouldn't pass without mention

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerSavatteri View Post
good morning,,,,,

OK, Since this is turning into the go-to thread about Hide Glue - I should bring up that there is a very good book about Hide Glue available from Tools for Working Wood
called Hide Glue: Historical & Practical Applications by Steven Shepard.

I remember liking it when I read it, I seem to recall the author writing about it like it was a new religion with the same fervor as a true believer. (in a good way, but a little wordy)

Gosh, now I have to dig it out and reread it!

Hide Glue: Historical & Practical Applications at Tools For Working Wood

Review of book,
Hide Glue - Historical and Practical Applications by Stephen Shepherd | Norse Woodsmith

Author's website, (look at his blog),,,,, and a nice selection of links.
ilovewood.com


.
I've got that book & I highly recommend it. It seems almost sacrilegious if building or repairing traditional old furniture not to use hide glue although I still have difficulty bringing myself to use frick'in slotted screws instead of more sensible torx head, etc. PVA glue is a flash in the pan when compared to thousands year old hide glue.
I really enjoy using it hot however the (big) drawback always goes back to the short open time when doing any but the simplest glue-ups. I always make sure that I have a helper available -- I suppose the old masters had an apprentice or two available. As I understand it, one of the earliest tasks was to make the apprentice responsible for maintaining the glue pot so it was always hot & ready when needed.
I'll miss the aroma (wife says "stink") but I'm looking forward to trying cold Old Brown Glue.

Last edited by RONWEN; 10-29-2011 at 01:47 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2011, 10:12 PM
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Default Re: Shouldn't pass without mention

Just got back down to Oceanside for the winter. Since OLD BROWN'S HIDE GLUE seems to be so popular, we ought to go visit the shop. It's in San Diego somewhere (although I thought it was actually in Oceanside). Field trip anyone?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2011, 12:42 AM
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Craig, when using your caulks for edge glue-ups, do you have a depth at which the caul ceases to be of practical use?
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:13 PM
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Default Re: Shouldn't pass without mention

Not really a depth per se Groggy... more of a mass. Bowclamps are certainly not right right for every glue-up. I don't want to overstate. For example I didn't use them for my table glue-up (8/4 x 6" maple). They will not flex a log...




But... at the same time I will say that if you need bone-crushing force to get the 2 pieces of wood to mate... it's simply not ready yet to see glue. You need to re-visit your joint prep.

I did use them here for guitar blanks...



and it's still a guitar.



so it depends on the situation.

I always recommend a dry run. You'll know before it sees glue.
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