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Old 04-11-2020, 08:53 PM
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Cricket Cricket is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Brooklyn Navy Yard
Posts: 313
Default Re: Model Boat Building

I might have mentioned before that my chine and sheer clamps are a little “floaty” in their notches, which makes it frustrating for fairing. I suppose I could have laminated those parts from 2, thinner pieces which might help them retain the necessary twist. Is this common practice with model builders? I don't know. At any rate, in an attempt to stabilize them, I drilled little holes in the parts close to the moulds, knotted a thread, and pulled the knot, with glue, into the hole. I then wrapped the loose end around a screw driven into the mould, pulling in and down at the same time. It helps, but doesn’t completely solve the problem.

After rigging the threads, I went ahead and beveled/faired the chines and sheer. I’m still futzing with the bevels on the keelson and chines up in the very ends, and likely won’t resolve those spots until after the side planks are on. I have to establish the point of transition from overlap to butt at the sides, too.

With most of the beveling done, I spiled the first side plank. This I did with a spare piece of planking stock, clamping it on the boat with no edge set, letting the ends drop where they naturally wanted to lay. I put a tick mark on the mould centers, then used a 3/4” wide rule with the top edge set up to the chine line, and marked the bottom edge on the spile board at several locations along the hull.

I then layed the spile board on a piece of planking, and repeated the process in reverse, marking location, and span with the same rule. Then I laid out a fair curve with spline and ducks, as usual.
In cutting the plank out on my jigsaw table, I split the plank (the jigsaw is a little brutal). But I glued the split back together, and will use that as a pattern for both sides. That’s where I’m at right now. Today I hope to get the side planks installed.

Thanks for tuning in!
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