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Old 11-24-2013, 08:23 PM
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Cricket Cricket is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Brooklyn Navy Yard
Posts: 276
Default Re: Planked Half Model

To continue...
The molds and transom are each glued to the profile board in their respective positions, corresponding to their position on the lines plan. I used cyanoacrylate for this, as for the whole project. I mounted the profile board to a piece of mdf with an "L" shaped block on the back to facilitate clamping in the vise in various positions.

This is the transom, expanded to its true shape.

The molds and transom are glued to the profile board, which is screwed to an mdf backer.

Dories have a narrow, flat bottom, usually about an inch thick. I used the 1/8" poplar again for that, gluing it onto the molds and then fairing the edge in a long, winding bevel to match the angle at each mold. This is just like it would be done on the full size boat.

Once the bottom is on and faired, the planking can start. I used bristol board to make plank patterns, wrapping a strip around the molds and marking off the knuckle locations from underneath. You have to be careful not edge set the pattern. It must lay flat and "normal" on all the molds. After marking the knuckles, I measured the widths to the inside bevel of the bottom at each mold, then faired the lines with my spline and ducks. The expanded shapes of boat planks can be surprising. I'll try to take a photo of the plank shapes laid flat when I'm back in the shop.

Once happy with the pattern, I traced it onto my planking stock, cut it out, faired it with a block plane, and glued it on the molds. It's a challenge working this small, trying to figure out ways of clamping things to a small, fragile setup. I ended up just starting amidship, and gluing a little bit at a time, holding it all with my hands til the glue set, then moving on. I've lost quite a bit of skin so far to the cyanoacrylate.

To be continued...
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